A World Through an Economist's Eyes - XU Qianqing's Travelogue

Author: Xu Dianqing
Publisher:
Publish Date: 2006-07-01
Features:
(1) Upon arriving at the Mogao Caves, just outside the airport terminal, we were greeted by the uniquely designed Dunhuang Airport. The earthen-gray walls and small windows resemble a fortress, as if telling people that you have passed through a time tunnel and have arrived in the Han and Tang dynasties. Despite its modest size, compared to the surrounding residential areas, the airport stands out like a camel in a flock of sheep. The local residents' houses are all single-story, resembling miniature Beijing siheyuan complexes. However, the side rooms are very close together, with their mountain walls connected, forming a gate in the middle. The courtyard is only slightly larger than a single room. Some families build grape arbors in their courtyards, integrating the three rooms into one. Why is there such limited space for construction in the vast northwest? The driver replied, "It's windy, and winter is cold." We drove directly from the airport to the Mogao Caves. As soon as we left the airport, the driver said, "Hold onto your seats." Just as I was puzzling, the car immediately began bouncing up and down. The asphalt road ahead was like a washing board. The driver smiled bitterly, "This section is on saline-alkali land, where the ground bubbles up, and it returns to this condition after being repaired in a few days." Fortunately, the saline-alkali area is not very large. After bidding farewell to the airport's poplar trees, the car entered the Gobi Desert. Stretching as far as the eye can see, the flat plain was scattered with large and small rocks, and a smooth road extended to the horizon. I asked the driver, "Why isn't there any sand in the Gobi Desert?" "Because it's windy," he replied. "When the wind blows, people can't stand, and sand can't stand either. On the Gobi Desert, you can even drive without a road." There's just one path without rocks where you can drive faster. In fact, you could even drive with your eyes closed—it would just be (dǐnbǒ) you up and down on the Gobi Desert. As soon as we left Dunhuang City, we saw small flags planted in the Gobi Desert, with dozens of military vehicles practicing maneuvers—this is truly the best training ground in the world. Walking through the Gobi Desert, except for the sand dunes stirred up behind us, there was nothing else. The desert was desolate and ethereal. No trees, no houses, no rolling hills or ridges, not even small grasses by the roadside. Here, nature frowned with sternness, monotonous and barren, not even a single mosquito could be seen. The Gobi Desert is like a cold killer; at any moment, it could raise its sharp sword in the form of a fierce wind, blowing the visitors away without a trace. No one likes the desert, but without such a killer, who would protect the Mogao Caves? While driving, a mountain appeared faintly on the horizon. The driver said, "That's the Mingsha Mountain, and the Mogao Caves are near." In the distant sky, the Qilian Mountains were snow-capped, their towering peaks cutting off the clouds and rain from the heavens, turning them into snow and glaciers. In summer, the snow melts, and the water forms two rivers: the Dang River nourishes the Yangguan and Dunhuang, while the Shule River waters the Yumen Pass. After bringing a few oases, the two rivers disappear at the last village on the edge of the desert. Mingsha Mountain is primarily composed of sandstone. Normally, sandstone is soft and not suitable for sculpture, but special geography and climate have blessed the Mogao Caves. If caves were carved in the sandstone regions of the Jiangnan area, they would likely collapse and disappear within a few decades. The craftsmen carved numerous caves into the cliffs of Mingsha Mountain, carving the foundations and skeletons of Bodhisattvas and Buddhas into the sandstone. Then, they mixed clay with reeds from the desert to shape vivid and lifelike Buddhas, Bodhisattvas, and Arhats. Finally, they used mineral pigments from the Qilian Mountains to paint the murals, filling the walls of the caves with Buddhist stories. The Mogao Caves combine sculpture, clay sculpture, and painting, truly making them a treasure of Chinese culture. The guardians of the Mogao Caves, besides the desert, are also the arid climate. Here, the annual rainfall is only 40 millimeters, which is less than a single spring rain in the Jiangnan region. Sweeping away the endless sand is the main work of the museum staff. At the center of the Mogao Caves, from the outside, it appears as a nine-story building built into the mountain. Entering the mountain gate, hello, a giant Buddha of over 30 meters tall greets you. Standing in front of the Buddha, you can only see its two feet; looking up, you can only see the lower jaw of the Buddha. P40-41