Eating in the Republic of China

Author: Wang Xiaohua
Publisher:
Publish Date: 2004-05-01
Features: Beyond the setting sun, the homing birds lose their traces. As the sunset fades, it's like flipping a coin, transitioning from the stage to life. There's the hustle and bustle of neon lights and wine, the intoxication of singing and dancing, the exhilaration of gambling, and the tranquility of birdsong and fragrant flowers. Published by Jiangsu Literature and Art Press, the series "Eating in the Republic," "Drinking in the Republic," "Entertainment in the Republic," and "Leisure in the Republic" recreate the vibrant and colorful life of the Republic of China era.
At dusk, the dinner at Yuan Shikai's "Presidential Palace" was just beginning. On the table lay the steamed duck and braised Yellow River carp, Yuan Shikai's favorite dishes. Picking up an ivory chopstick, he pierced the duck first, then skillfully rolled a large piece of skin onto it before popping it into his mouth. In the brightly lit Nanjing Confucius Temple, the Six Dynasties Tea House was bustling with people. Some were drinking tea, others singing, while vendors shouted about cheap and delicious dumplings and shredded silk. Even poor students could spend a few copper coins here to join the fun.
Outside a Western-style bar in Shanghai, a glamorous bartender stood by the door, eagerly greeting passing customers in the dim light. In a heavily guarded mansion in Beijing, under the glow of a lamp, two men sat facing each other, playing Go. One was the Prime Minister of the Republic of China, Duan Qirui, and the other was the Go genius Wu Qingyuan.
Unlike general conceptual introductions and academic research works, this series delves into these life details, where characters, stories, and scenes are vividly presented through a gentle narration, much like watching a slide show from the past. Recently, a newspaper in Chengdu reported that a celebrity visited Chengdu for a performance, and fans flocked to see them. A young man was pushed and struck by the celebrity's bodyguards, slapped three times in the face. Yet, after being beaten, the young man claimed it was worth it, as those slaps were for the chance to get closer to his idol. In this vast world, indeed, there are all kinds of people.
While chasing and admiring celebrities, those who can afford to offer luxury cars and mansions to their idols have a very different outcome. The pursuit of celebrities during the Republic of China era, however, had a different style. In the sixth year of the Republic, Guangxi warlord Lu Rongting entered the capital and asked the former emperor and empress about their entertainment beyond the Manchu-Han banquet. Those in the know told him to listen to Tan Xingpei's opera. At that time, the grandmaster of Peking opera, Tan Xingpei, was already seriously ill and no longer performed on stage. Yet, the warlord insisted on making a scene of Tan Xingpei, threatening to destroy the theater and confiscate the family's property if he didn't sing. Even Tan Xingpei, who had served emperors and empresses, had no choice but to perform despite his illness, singing "The Three Stars Return." This performance turned out to be the last of the master (see "Entertainment in the Republic").
The same goes for eating, drinking, and having fun—some taste, some extravagance, some value face, and some seek practicality. From these small matters, we can see the personality traits and their relationship to success or failure in the private lives of the Republic of China's prominent figures. This is also what makes this series so engaging. The difference between eras may only lie in the sunlight and the stage, but beyond the sunset, in life, it's all quite similar. Just like the same prescription, individual temperaments differ. As for the clamor of sensual pleasures and the intoxication of wealth and luxury, it's just that the sunset remains, but the people have changed. Eating, drinking, and having fun have their own grand worlds and grand realms.
Just as there are different tastes,，. Tan Yankai was particularly fond of shark fin soup, almost to the point of obsession. Hu Hanmin, knowing his fondness, arranged for the shark fin to be served last when hosting him for a meal. He deliberately said the shark fin was not tasty, "like chewing on wax." Tan Yankai, frustrated and scratching his head, could only beg, "If you won't refuse, may I have some of the wax?" Chiang Kai-shek loved the West Lake Vinegar Fish from Louwailou, Wang Jingwei enjoyed the "Beauty Liver" from Maxing Xing, Zhang Xueliang was partial to braised pork, and Chen Guofu pioneered the "under the heavens" cuisine. Among the literati, Lu Xun, Lin Yutang, Yu Dafu, and Hu Shih were all foodies, and Xu Beihong once astonishingly said, "Fish are my life, crabs are my enemies. If I meet my enemies, I won't hesitate to die!" Just as the Republic of China had a variety of delicacies, it also had many food experts who laughed at the forest of food and countless stories.