Surfer

Author: Li Guowen
Publisher:
Publish Date: 2003-03-01
Features: I love the sea, and I even long for the surfers who ride against the tide. I love the sea, not because I was born by the sea or grew up by the sea, sharing an inherent deep affection for the ocean. Nor because I was once a sailor or a fisherman, working from dawn to dusk and resting at sunset, developing a professional attachment to it. Of course, it's not because the sea's azure color sparks a desire for painting; nor because its vastness makes one want to sing out loud; nor because its endless vicissitudes inspire a poet's romanticism—only then do I feel that joy and excitement for the sea. In this world, almost all sports end with victory. Few, like surfing, always conclude in failure. This seems quite strange—a lack of champagne, no applause upon reaching the finish line, no world records. There are no strict opponents or closely coordinated teammates. No matter how skillfully you perform at the crest of the wave, the board eventually slips away, and you are swallowed by the giant wave. Despite this, people still eagerly rush out to the sea. I believe failure may be the great charm of surfing.