Xu Xiake, my travel guide

Author: Ye Guizhen (Compiler)
Publisher:
Publishing Date: 2006-09-01
Features: Xu Xiake originally traveled seventy li to the north of Beitai, where the mountain opened up, known as Dongdi Mountain. The northern end of Taishan belonged to the jurisdiction of Fanzhi County. On the ninth day, I left the southern mountains. The Great Creek, which flowed from the mountains, branched off to the west. I rode north to the flatlands, overlooking the surrounding mountains, which were no more than a tenth of the height of Taishan and stretched like a low wall (wall: a short fence) from east to Pingxing in the east to Yanmen in the west, spanning fifteen li in width. Northward to the foot of the mountain, I crossed the Sha River, reaching Sha River Fortress. Leaning against the mountain, overlooking the river, the fortress was built with bricks and tiles, sturdy and well-structured. From the fortress northwest seventy li, there was Xiaoshikou, part of the western route to Datong; straight north sixty li, there was Beilukou, part of the eastern route to Datong. I climbed the mountain behind the fortress, about several li northeast to the gully mouth, where water flowed from north to south, eventually joining the Sha River. Following the water into the gully, the stream twisted and turned through a desolate valley. Several li later, there was Yixing Fortress. Several li further, Zhujiāfāng. Another several li, to Huluzui. Leaving the ravine and climbing the mountain along the ridge, the terrain became a basin, and the stream flowed northward, marking the boundary of Hunyuan County. Several li later, there was Tuling, sixty li southwest of the prefecture and fifty li southwest of Sha River. I stopped at the home of a family with the same surname.
On the tenth day, I followed the northern gully three li north, where a gully came from the west to join it, and then turned northeast to leave. I entered the western gully and found another gully coming from the north, so I climbed the ridge to its west. The path was very steep. Six or seven li straight north, then turning west, I climbed five or six li northward, ascending two peaks to reach the summit, known as Jiananzhong Ridge. From Sha River, climbing the mountain and crossing the gullies, I wound through the valleys, encountering only earthen mounds and desolate hills. Unexpectedly, here I suddenly ascended to the open sky. Yet, the southern slope still resembled a novice. Once past the ridge, I overlooked the interconnected peaks and cliffs, with emerald flying and crimson flowing. What circled the sky and reflected were all rocks, yet the rocks were covered with trees; the color of the rocks was uniform, yet their essence varied in beauty; the colors of the trees were diverse, yet their interweaving formed a tapestry. Rocks adorned with trees became more extraordinary, covered with lush foliage like paintings; trees supported by rocks spread out and twisted, appearing more ancient. For fifty li, I descended directly to the bottom of the pit, where a gushing stream flowed from south to north, joining the gully mouth, known as Longyu Kou, with the fortress nearby. The village was prosperous, with many plum and apricot trees, forming dense forests at the foot of the mountain.
After leaving the gully, I reached flatlands again. To the north, the surrounding mountains formed a ring, stretching from east to west. Thirty li east of Hunyuan County and seventy li west of Yingzhou. Longyu, overlooking the surrounding mountains, was no different from Dongdi Mountain overlooking the mountains near Sha River Gully Mouth. Thus, I followed the eastern slope of the mountain, looking east at the gully, where the peaks became more jagged and steep. I learned they were called Longshan. The name Longshan was well-known in Shanxi, yet few knew it compared to Mount Heng. Here, having crossed its boundary to the west and viewed its northern face, I unexpectedly discovered it, worthy of the "late harvest" of Mount Tai.
Ten li eastward was Longshan Dàyun Temple, facing the mountain to the south. Another ten li eastward, there was a major road leading northwest, straight to the foot of Mount Heng, where I turned and followed it, ten li away from the mountain base. The two peaks of Mount Heng stood like pillars, with carriages and riders arriving in a continuous stream, breaking through the cliffs. This was the Dǎomǎ and Zǐjīng road from Datong. Following it to the mountain base, the cliffs stood vertically, with a gully flowing through, narrow as if with no direction, winding up and down in secluded beauty. The Double Peaks of Yique and the Nine Curves of Wuyi could not compare to it. At that time, the clear stream had not yet risen, so I waded upstream.
I did not know when, both cliffs had stone steps carved, about four or five feet wide and over a foot deep, arranged in rows. I imagined that during floods, wooden walkways were inserted to cross the stream.