Travelogue Essays of China: An Anthology. Volume Anhui

Author: / Country: Mainland China
Publisher:
Publishing Date: 2002-08-01
Features: ⑩ The following numbers are represented in parentheses because of the absence of "" from the Qing Dynasty, Emperor Qianlong's 29th year (1744), the first half of the ninth month, I traveled to Huangshan with my friends from Shixian, Cheng Yitian, Fang Xiyuan, Wu Hanfeng, Wu Huichuan, and Huichuan's younger brother Jipu. We returned after six days, but were unable to explore the entire mountain. Some requested a record, so I took the old records of Huangshan and supplemented them to form this article to attract future lovers of travel. Traveling 120 miles northwest from Shixian City to Tangkou, the stream gushes between large rocks. Looking up at the peaks, they seem to be in the sky. Upon reaching Xiangfu Temple, the peaks are half hidden and invisible. Crossing the small bridge to the north, there is a hot spring. The spring comes from Zhusha Peak, forming a small pool shaded by half a rock, not exceeding two feet deep, with the spring gushing from the sandy bottom. To the north of the pool, cold spring flows from the rock crevices. The two waters mix and do not become too hot. In winter, when the cold spring dries up, the water becomes even warmer. At the eastern corner of the pool, there is a gap to drain the waste, and the water becomes clean as it flows. The Zhusha Spring has a fragrant atmosphere. Therefore, although there are many hot springs in the world, Huangshan is the crown of them. After bathing, we crossed the stones and streams, walked left for dozens of steps to the Peach Blossom Spring. The stone path is narrow and secluded, passing through a stone like a door. The stones are either flat or convex, some covered and some exposed, like a lane, and as long as a corridor. Passing through another stone gate, we emerged into an abundance of old plum blossoms. From the temple's right, we climbed the "Sky Ladder" for over a hundred steps, but the deep ravine could not be crossed, so we used two wooden props to cross the cliff. Turning left and winding for about half a mile, a cave suddenly appeared on the cliff, with a clean and lovely opening, three feet deep, two feet high, and half as wide. At the end of the cave, there is a small cave like a niche or a hall, with a flying spring pouring down continuously, known as the "Water Curtain Cave." Exiting the cave, we followed the cliff to the left, where there are two small caves separated like a wall, known as the "Dining in the Clouds Cave." On the left side of the mountain, a stream flows through the, known as the "Medicine Creek." The stream stones are over a foot wide, concave like a mortar, with the upper stream flowing in, known as the "Medicine Cauldron." To the left of the cauldron, the water flows down in a hanging stream, with a stone like a round bowl at the end, with a spiral mouth, and colorful stones, white like pearls, known as the "Red Well." Turning right, we came to the Lotus Temple. Entering the temple and climbing the pavilion, we looked down at the White Dragon Pool. The pool is over ten feet wide, with a large stone spanning across, over three feet high. The Medicine Cauldron merges with the waters of the streams, flowing down from the stacked stones at a high altitude; the pool is supported by a stone, with a powerful impact, roaring like thunder. Once the pool receives the water, it becomes turbulent and deep, and after long observation, one feels fear and awe. On the top of the pool, an old tree casts a shade like a canopy, where dozens of people can sit and drink. Following the pool's edge for about a mile, there is a stone standing on the mountain, with its head raised as if roaring, known as the "Tiger Head Rock." Walking a hundred steps, we see a large stone leaning, as if it cannot bear a cup or a spoon, known as the "Drunk Stone." Next to the Drunk Stone, there is a spring flowing, from under the stone wall, known as the "Washing Cups Spring." Below, there is a hidden stone, white above and dark below, known as the "Snow Stopping Stone." Half a mile into the valley, there is a spring like a dragon, flowing directly from the cliff into the stone, creating a depression. The water overflows and flows down, creating a series of depressions, known as the "Falling Stars Spring." Turning upward, the stone cliff is concave and wide, with layered stones, and a hundred-foot waterfall flows down. Halfway up the mountain, a large stone blocks it, causing the water to flow upward in several streams, with a horizontal stone over ten feet long, hollow like a zither, with the water flowing over it, creating a sound like a flute, hence the name "Singing String Spring." Ascending the Singing String Spring, the terrain is obstructed and dangerous, like a weasel climbing through the forest. A little further, the ground suddenly becomes open, with a majestic Buddhist temple, known as the "Ciguang Temple." The temple is surrounded by lush green trees, with sunlight filtering through like walking through algae. From the temple gate, we can see the Qingluan Peak, with the top resembling a person sitting in meditation. Upon closer inspection, it is stone. Turning left from the temple and heading north into the valley, the valley mouth has a stone like a dragon's head, with a pine tree standing on it. The valley water flows on both sides of the stone, merging in the middle, forming a perfect circle. The streams on both sides flow over stacked stones, creating a scene like two white dragons winding into the valley. On the left side, there is a cave with water flowing in like a well, with stone steps like a Bodhisattva's platform. There are five hundred steps. From below, the stones look like a ladder, and from above, the water looks like a belt. Turning right from the temple and ascending the Zhusha Stream, we pass by the Boju and Laoren Peaks, with steep cliffs on both sides. We climb by holding the walls, and suddenly, a cave opens like a door. From here, the cliffs are dangerous and winding. Sitting on a stone to rest, we suddenly see the path ahead as a void in the stone wall. There are courtyards and platforms, like doors and hinges, as if a Buddha resides there, with rooms and kitchens around the corners. It seems as if a monk holds a bowl and leans on the doorframe, known as the "Empty Appearance Abode." The Empty Appearance is the shadow of the stone. About three miles from the stone shadow, we reach Guanyin Rock. The rock stands like an inverted lid, with enough space for dozens of people. One wall extends to the right, and the other is embedded, hollow like an inverted bowl, with a red glow, which is the Zhusha Cave. Crossing the rock and stepping over small stones, we reach the Laoren Peak. The peak is small and sharp, with stones standing like an old man leaning forward, over a foot high, and overlooking a hundred feet. There are no steps, so we climb by holding vines. Large stones can be used, covered with green pines, with sunlight casting shadows, even in summer, the shade is oppressive. Ascending the Great Yin Valley, the valley is filled with sharp stones. Passing the valley and climbing the hill, the view opens up, and looking back, the path seems like the bottom of a deep well; the Tiandu and Lianhua peaks are still seen in the sky. After dozens of steps, the peak becomes closer, and the mountain color rises from the frame. Leaving it, we cross the hill to the west and find a temple called Beiyè. The stone cave is three feet wide and tall, with a steep left wall, with water flowing like a wall. In front, a large stone rises over thirty feet, blocking the cave entrance. To the right, a gorge splits, with cliffs like a roof. The water flows like a curtain in front of the cave, with a pool of clear water on the side, known as the "Lotus Cave." Leaving the cave and climbing the hill eastward, we find a large stone blocking the path, hollow in the middle, with stone steps built like a door, known as the "Cloud Nest." Turning upward, there are two pines on both sides of the path, with intertwined branches, as if greeting the travelers, known as the "Welcoming Pines." Suddenly, a large stone rises like a turtle's back, with cliffs on both sides over ten thousand feet deep. Walking on the spine, everyone's legs tremble. Next to the path, there is a flat stone, shaded by pines, where one can sit, known as the "Buddha Seat." Passing the stone, two cliffs stand like walls, and walking through the gap, the sky seems narrow. There is a pine on the left wall, several feet long, with branches on the right wall, known as the "Lying Dragon." Turning again, three stone walls stand, with one pine like a person sitting, which we only see when looking back. A little further, the path becomes narrower, and the gorge ends with stones, making it impossible to proceed. We then build a wooden raft, thin and long, with the bottom over a deep gorge, leaning on the mossy walls, barely wide enough to cross, known as the "Breaking the World Bridge." After crossing the raft, we enter a stone cave. The cave is surrounded by three sides, with no way out. Looking up, the top is like a broken roof, with sunlight entering. We climb up with a wooden ladder, as if coming out of a well. From the broken wall, the two cliffs compete for height. After walking a little further, old trees are planted like a fence, and the path turns into the Wenshu Temple. Among the thirty-six peaks of Huangshan, Tiandu and Lianhua are the highest. Climbing to the Wenshu Temple, Tiandu Peak is to the left, and Lianhua Peak is to the right, with the two peaks standing like a gate, and the temple's back is actually supported by the Yushipin Peak. The Yushipin Peak is between Tiandu and Lianhua, lower and flatter, looking like a door threshold from a distance. In front of the temple, there is a platform, where all the peaks are arranged behind. Below the platform, the cliffs are steep, and looking back, all the peaks we have passed are hidden below, with distant mountains looking like ant hills. Tiandu Peak has no path that cannot be climbed, so we climb to Lianhua Peak. Turning right from the Wenshu Temple and descending, we carve steps in the stone, narrow enough to touch the wall, with, reaching the foot of the mountain, and then climbing back up. At the base of Lianhua Peak, the stone wall drops hundreds of feet, with a water channel flowing through. We follow the water channel, carving steps over a thousand, with each step too narrow to fit both feet, and travelers touching their foreheads and knees. Above, the stone wall is like a barrier, pressing down to the top. After reaching the top, we enter a stone crevice, where the sky is only a few feet high, with dark cliffs, and the water is so cold that it soaks the clothes. After climbing a hundred steps, we reach a horizontal ridge. Following the ridge eastward, we reach the "petal" of Lianhua Peak. Climbing further, we suddenly encounter a large stone blocking the path like a turtle. Crossing the stone to the north, we see a crevice on the side, and we squeeze through it. After climbing a few steps, there is a stone like a door. Entering, we follow the left wall, where the path is too narrow to fit a foot. Turning, we enter a cave, with two stones leaning against each other. We see a gap of sunlight. Climbing up and down a few steps, we find openings in the stone, suddenly dark and suddenly bright. After climbing another thirty steps, there is a monk's hut. Following the left eaves of the hut, there is a stone beam less than a foot wide, high and empty, with no one daring to look down. Turning again, the stone suddenly splits, with a wooden bridge crossing, and we reach a cliff again, with two ladders embedded in it. Below the ladders, the stone drops hundreds of feet, making us afraid to climb. Climbing, the steps end, and the stone reaches our chest. Using our abdomen to cling to the stone, we climb up, and the stone splits again, three feet wide, and we cross it to reach the top. From below, the top looks like a single stone. Entering, we find walls and pavilions, winding and interconnected. The companions call out from the wall, like talking in a pot. Following their voices, we find a way out. The top is over a foot wide, with green stones surrounding it, concave like a bowl, like a lotus just blooming. Sitting on it, the view is endless, with mountains, rivers, cities, and towns, all shimmering like smoke, indistinct. To the south of the peak, there is a peak called Lianru, like a column, over ten thousand feet high, but its core is not yet split, like a lotus bud. To the north, there is a low cliff, a hundred feet away from Lian Peak, like lotus leaves. There is a pool of water in the middle, which does not dry up even in drought. From the peak top, following the old path to the ridge, the ridge suddenly breaks, with a deep gorge below. We carve over a hundred steps in the wall. Each step is only a foot wide, and the travelers' shoulders and heels are close together, known as the "Cloud Stairs." Those coming from the Prime Minister's original path climb the Cloud Stairs; those coming from Xiangfu Temple descend the Cloud Stairs. After reaching the top, turning east, the path becomes slightly flat, and walking through a large gorge for three miles, the stone cliffs are a thousand feet high, like walls, impossible to cross, known as the "Coil Fish Peak." We follow the curves of the cliffs, carving over a hundred steps. Next to the peak, there are two peaks: Xuanzhong and Haitao. We find a new stone crevice, with a path like a railing. Turning upward, we enter a cave, with stone steps built to exit, known as the "Stone Gate." Exiting the stone gate, we reach a flat ridge, known as the "Sea Lake." The highest peak of Huangshan.