Cosmetics Formulation and Processing Handbook

Author: Dong Yinmou
Publisher:
Publishing Date: 2005-04-01
Features: This book systematically introduces the basic theory, raw materials, formulations, production processes, and safety evaluation of cosmetics. The authors, combining years of work experience and referencing a large number of domestic and international literature, detail the production processes of different types of products based on fundamental principles and formulation design principles in both flowcharts and text descriptions, supplemented by numerous formulation examples. This includes cleansing, skincare, therapeutic, hair care, beautifying, special-use, children's cosmetics, and high-tech cosmetics. The book is intended for use by professionals in various industries involved in the research, development, and production of cosmetics.
Table of Contents
Table of Contents
Introduction 1
Part 1 Basic Theory
Chapter 1 Skin Basics 71
1.1 Physiological Functions of the Skin 71
1.2 Types of Skin 91
1.3 Skin pH Value 101
1.4 Skin Moisture and Hydration 101
1.5 Hair 111
1.6 Skin Color 121
1.6.1 Skin Pigmentation 121
1.6.2 Melanin 131
1.7 Skin Beauty 131
1.7.1 Factors Affecting Skin Health 131
1.7.2 Elements of Skin Beauty 151
1.7.3 Hair Concerns 171
1.7.4 Home Skin Care Tips 181
1.7.5 Beauty Advice 191
1.8 Skin Aging and Prevention 201
1.8.1 External Manifestations of Skin Aging 201
1.8.2 Aging of Skin Physiological Functions 201
1.8.3 Prevention of Skin Aging 211
1.9 Common Skin Diseases 221
1.9.1 Acne 221
1.9.2 Pigmentation 22
Chapter 2 Emulsification Principles and Technology 24
2.1 Emulsions 24
2.2 Emulsification Principles 25
2.2.1 Oriented Wedge Theory 25
2.2.2 Interfacial Tension Theory 25
2.2.3 Stability of Interfacial Membranes 26
2.2.4 Effect of Solid Particles on Emulsions 28
2.2.5 Stability of Liquid Crystals and Emulsions 28
2.3 Emulsifiers 29
2.3.1 Classification of Emulsifiers 29
2.3.2 HLB Value of Emulsifiers 29
2.4 Transformation and Destruction of Emulsions 30
2.4.1 Determination of Emulsion Type 30
2.4.2 Transformation of Emulsion Type 31
2.4.3 Destruction of Emulsions 32
2.5 Preparation of Emulsions 33
2.5.1 Mixing Methods 33
2.5.2 Addition Methods of Emulsifiers 34
2.5.3 Factors Affecting Emulsification 34
Chapter 3 Microorganisms in Cosmetics 36
3.1 Microbial Contamination and Control in Cosmetics 36
3.1.1 Substances Required for Microbial Growth 36
3.1.2 Factors Affecting Microbial Growth 39
3.1.3 Microbial Contamination of Cosmetics 41
3.1.4 Control of Microbial Contamination in Cosmetics 43
3.2 Preservation of Cosmetics 45
3.2.1 General Mechanism of Preservatives 45
3.2.2 Selection of Preservatives 46
3.2.3 Factors Affecting the Activity of Cosmetic Preservatives 47
3.3 Microbial Testing of Cosmetics 48
3.3.1 Standards for Microbial Testing in Cosmetics 48
3.3.2 Testing of Total Bacterial Count in Cosmetics 48
3.3.3 Testing of Fecal Coliforms in Cosmetics 51
3.3.4 Testing of Pseudomonas Aeruginosa in Cosmetics 52
3.3.5 Testing of Staphylococcus Aureus in Cosmetics 54
3.3.6 Testing of Fungi in Cosmetics 55
Chapter 4 Cosmetic Production Processes, Equipment, and Quality Control 58
4.1 Introduction to Various Production Equipment 58
4.2 Emulsion Cosmetics 59
4.2.1 Emulsion Preparation Technology 59
4.2.2 Production Equipment for Emulsion Cosmetics 64
4.2.3 Quality Control of Snow Cream 70
4.2.4 Quality Control of Talcum 72
4.2.5 Quality Control of Lotion 73
4.2.6 Quality Control of Emulsion Cosmetics 74
4.3 Aqueous Cosmetics 75
4.3.1 Preparation Technology of Aqueous Cosmetics 76
4.3.2 Production Equipment for Aqueous Cosmetics 78
4.3.3 Quality Control of Aqueous Cosmetics 81
4.4 Powder Cosmetics 82
4.4.1 Preparation Technology of Powder Cosmetics 82
4.4.2 Production Equipment for Powder Cosmetics 87
4.4.3 Quality Control of Talcum 92
4.4.4 Quality Control of Foundation Powder Cake 93
4.5 Hair Cosmetics 94
4.5.1 Preparation Technology of Hair Cosmetics 94
4.5.2 Quality Control of Shampoo 100
4.5.3 Quality Control of Hair Lotion 102
4.5.4 Quality Control of Hair Oil 104
4.5.5 Quality Control of Hair Wax 105
4.5.6 Quality Control of Hair Dye 105
4.6 Aerosol Cosmetics 107
4.6.1 Preparation Technology of Aerosol Products 108
4.6.2 Pressure Vessels 109
4.6.3 Propellants 110
4.6.4 Quality Indicators of Aerosol Cosmetics 113
4.6.5 Quality Problems and Control Methods of Aerosol Cosmetics 114
4.7 Beautifying Cosmetics 115
4.7.1 Preparation Technology of Beautifying Cosmetics 115
4.7.2 Quality Control of Beautifying Cosmetics 120
Part 2 Raw Materials of Cosmetics
Chapter 5 Main Raw Materials of Cosmetics 124
5.1 Oil-Based Raw Materials 124
5.1.1 Natural Oil-Based Raw Materials 124
5.1.2 Mineral Oil-Based Raw Materials 140
5.1.3 Synthetic Oil-Based Raw Materials 142
5.1.4 Fatty Acids, Alcohols, and Esters 149
5.2 Powder Raw Materials 156
5.2.1 Classification and Functions of Powder Raw Materials 156
5.2.2 Properties of Powder Raw Materials 156
5.2.3 Main Powder Raw Materials in Cosmetics 158
5.3 Water-Soluble Polymers 161
5.3.1 Properties and Functions of Water-Soluble Polymers 161
5.3.2 Classification of Water-Soluble Polymers 165
5.3.3 Organic Natural Water-Soluble Polymers 165
5.3.4 Organic Semi-Synthetic Water-Soluble Polymers 172
5.3.5 Organic Synthetic Water-Soluble Polymers 174
5.3.6 Inorganic Water-Soluble Polymers 181
5.4 Solvent Raw Materials 182
5.4.1 Water 183
5.4.2 Alcohols 183
5.4.3 Ketones 184
5.4.4 Ethers and Esters 184
5.4.5 Aromatic and Refrigerant Solvents 184
Chapter 6 Auxiliary Raw Materials 185
6.1 Humectants 185
6.1.1 Basic Principles of Humectants 185
6.1.2 Common Humectants in Cosmetics 186
6.2 Preservatives and Antioxidants 190
6.2.1 Preservatives for Cosmetics 190
6.2.2 Antioxidants for Cosmetics 200
6.2.3 Metal Chelating Agents 206
6.3 Fragrances and Perfumes 207
6.3.1 Overview of Fragrances 207
6.3.2 Animal Fragrances 209
6.3.3 Plant Fragrances 210
6.3.4 Synthetic Fragrances 214
6.3.5 Fragrances for Cosmetics 219
6.3.6 Perfuming Technology 221
6.3.7 Stability and Safety of Fragrances 223
6.3.8 Application of Fragrances in Cosmetics 227
6.4 Pigments 230
6.4.1 Basic Concepts of Pigments 230
6.4.2 Classification of Pigments for Cosmetics 231
6.4.3 Requirements for Pigments for Cosmetics 231
6.4.4 Stability of Pigments in Cosmetics 232
6.5 Nutritional and Therapeutic Additives 233
6.5.1 Plant Additives 233
6.5.2 Animal Additives 242
6.5.3 Physiologically Active Substance Additives 248
6.5.4 Trace Element and Hormone Additives 256
6.5.5 Synthetic Nutritional Additives 259
6.6 Special-Use Additives 261
6.6.1 Sunscreens 261
6.6.2 Hair Dyes 267
6.6.3 Hair Straighteners 274
6.6.4 Hair Removal Agents 276
6.6.5 Astringents and Antiperspirants 277
6.6.6 Deodorants 279
6.7 Other Additives 280
6.7.1 280
6.7.2 Anti-Dandruff and Anti-Itch Agents 285
6.7.3 Skin Penetration Agents 287
6.7.4 Scrubs 288
6.7.5 Acid-Base Additives 289
Chapter 7 Surfactants 290
7.1 Application of Surfactants in Cosmetics 291
7.2 Anionic Surfactants 291
7.2.1 Fatty Acid Salts 291
7.2.2 Sulfate Salts 293
7.2.3 Sulfate Salts 297
7.2.4 Phosphate Salts 298
7.2.5 N-Acyl Amino Acids and Their Salts 299
7.3 Cationic Surfactants 301
7.3.1 Quaternary Ammonium Salts 301
7.3.2 Alkyl Amine Salts 305
7.3.3 Alkyl Imidazoline Salts 307
7.3.4 Ethoxylated Amines 307
7.3.5 Heterocyclic Cationic Surfactants 307
7.3.6 Polymer-Type Cationic Surfactants 308
7.4 Non-Ionic Surfactants 309
7.4.1 Polyethylene Glycol 309
7.4.2 Alkyl Alcohol Amides and Ethoxylated Amides 315
7.4.3 Oxidized Amines and Their Derivatives 316
7.4.4 Sucrose Esters and Glucoside Derivatives 316
7.4.5 Phosphoryl Triester 317
7.4.6 N-Alkyl Pyrrolidone 318
7.5 Amphoteric Surfactants 318
7.5.1 Betaines 318
7.5.2 Beta-Aminopropionic Acids 319
7.5.3 Imidazolines 319
7.5.4 Oxidized Amines 320
7.6 Natural Emulsifiers 321
7.7 Microbial Surfactants 322
Part 3 Cosmetic Formulations and Production Processes
Chapter 8 Cleansing Cosmetics 325
8.1 Cleansing Cream 325
8.1.1 Anhydrous Cleansing Cream 326
8.1.2 W/O Type Cleansing Cream 328
8.1.3 O/W Type Cleansing Cream 331
8.2 Facial Cleanser 337
8.2.1 Ordinary Facial Cleanser 337
8.2.2 Foaming Facial Cleanser 342
8.2.3 Mild Surfactant Facial Cleanser 345
8.2.4 Gel Facial Cleanser 349
8.2.5 Therapeutic Facial Cleanser 351
8.3 Deep Cleansing Products 354
8.3.1 Scrub 354
8.3.2 Exfoliating Cream 357
8.4 Face Masks 360
8.4.1 Stripping Face Masks 360
8.4.2 Powder Face Masks 365
8.4.3 Cream Face Masks 367
8.4.4 Molded Face Masks 368
8.4.5 Brief Introduction to Other Types of Face Masks 369
8.5 Bath Cleansers 370
8.5.1 Shower Gel 371
8.5.2 Foaming Shower Gel 379
8.5.3 Shower Oil 382
8.5.4 Shower Salt 389
Chapter 9 Skincare Cosmetics 393
9.1 Cream and Lotion Skincare Products 393
9.1.1 Formulation Design of Cream and Lotion Skincare Products 394
9.1.2 Snow Cream 395
9.1.3 Talcum 410
9.1.4 Lotion 414
9.1.5 Emulsion 450
9.2 Aqueous Skincare Products 457
9.2.1 Formulation Design of Aqueous Skincare Products 458
9.2.2 General Manufacturing Method of Toner 459
9.2.3 Cleansing Toner 460
9.2.4 Astringent Toner 462
9.2.5 Softening Toner 466
9.2.6 Balancing Toner 471
9.2.7 Multi-Layer Toner 472
9.2.8 After-Shave Toner 473
9.3 Gel Skincare Products 476
9.3.1 Classification of Gel Skincare Products 476
9.3.2 Aqueous Gel Systems 476
Chapter 10 Therapeutic Cosmetics 480
10.1 Highly Humectant Cosmetics 480
10.1.1 Humectant Mechanism 480
10.1.2 Evaluation of Humectant Performance 481
10.1.3 Formulation Design of Highly Humectant Cosmetics 481
10.1.4 Formulation Examples of Highly Humectant Cosmetics 482
10.2 Whitening Cosmetics 485
10.2.1 Whitening Mechanism 485
10.2.2 Whitening Active Ingredients 486
10.2.3 Evaluation of Whitening Effects 487
10.2.4 Formulation Examples of Whitening Cosmetics 488
10.3 Anti-Aging Cosmetics 494
10.3.1 "Free Radical Theory" of Aging 494
10.3.2 Anti-Aging Active Ingredients 496
10.3.3 Formulation Design of Anti-Aging Cosmetics 497
10.3.4 Formulation Examples of Anti-Aging Cosmetics 498
10.4 Acne-Preventive Cosmetics 503
10.4.1 Formulation Design of Acne-Preventive Cosmetics 504
10.4.2 Formulation Examples of Acne-Preventive Cosmetics 504
10.5 Sunscreen Cosmetics 511
10.5.1 Basic Concepts of Sunscreen 511
10.5.2 Evaluation of Sunscreen Products 512
10.5.3 Formulation Design of Sunscreen Products 516
10.5.4 Formulation Examples of Sunscreen Products 518
Chapter 11 Hair Cosmetics 541
11.1 Shampoo Products 541
11.1.1 Composition of Shampoo Formulations 541
11.1.2 Formulation Design of Shampoo 547
11.1.3 Liquid Shampoo 548
11.1.4 Cream Shampoo 558
11.1.5 Shampoo Gel 561
11.1.6 Special Shampoo 564
11.2 Hair Care Products 575
11.2.1 Hair Conditioner 575
11.2.2 Hair Oil 585
11.2.3 Hair Wax 589
11.2.4 Hair Lotion 593
11.2.5 Oil 598
11.3 Hair Styling Products 601
11.3.1 Polymers in Hair Styling Products 601
11.3.2 Hair Spray 602
11.3.3 Styling Mousse 610
11.3.4 Hair Gel 615
Chapter 12 Beautifying Cosmetics 620
12.1 Facial Cosmetics 620
12.1.1 Powder Foundation 620
12.1.2 Liquid Foundation 626
12.1.3 Block Foundation 630
12.1.4 Emulsion Foundation 636
12.1.5 Blush 640
12.2 Lip Cosmetics 647
12.2.1 Lipstick 647
12.2.2 Lip Liner 661
12.3 Eye Cosmetics 661
12.3.1 Eyebrow Pencil 661
12.3.2 Eyeshadow 664
12.3.3 Mascara 673
12.3.4 Eyeliner Products 680
12.4 Nail Cosmetics 684
12.4.1 Nail Polish 684
12.4.2 Other Nail Cosmetics 691
12.5 Aromatic Cosmetics 696
12.5.1 Perfume 696
12.5.2 Cologne 702
12.5.3 Eau de Cologne 707
Chapter 13 Special-Use Cosmetics 712
13.1 Hair Growth Cosmetics 712
13.1.1 Causes of Hair Loss 712
13.1.2 Composition of Hair Growth Cosmetics 713
13.1.3 Formulation Examples of Hair Growth Cosmetics 714
13.2 Hair Dyeing Cosmetics 720
13.2.1 Temporary Hair Dye 721
13.2.2 Semi-Permanent Hair Dye 723
13.2.3 Permanent Hair Dye 724
13.2.4 Other Hair Dyeing Cosmetics 739
13.3 Hair Straightening Products 741
13.3.1 Hair Straightening Mechanism 741
13.3.2 Cold Wave 743
13.3.3 Electric Wave 749
13.4 Hair Removal Cosmetics 751
13.4.1 Composition of Chemical Hair Removal Agents 751
13.4.2 Formulation Examples 753
13.5 Breast Enhancement Cosmetics 756
13.5.1 Principles and Methods of Breast Enhancement 757
13.5.2 Composition of Breast Enhancement Cosmetics 758
13.5.3 Formulation Examples 758
13.6 Body Shaping Cosmetics 760
13.6.1 Metabolism of Fat 760
13.6.2 Principles of Body Shaping Cosmetics 760
13.6.3 Formulation Examples 761
13.7 Pigment Removal Cosmetics 765
13.7.1 Methods and Approaches of Pigment Removal 765
13.7.2 Formulation Examples 766
13.8 Antiperspirant and Deodorant Cosmetics 769
13.8.1 Antiperspirant Cosmetics 769
13.8.2 Deodorant Cosmetics 777
Chapter 14 Children's Cosmetics 783
14.1 Characteristics and Common Skin Conditions of Children's Skin 783
14.1.1 Characteristics of Children's Skin 783
14.1.2 Common Skin Conditions in Children 784
14.2 Basic Requirements for Children's Care Products 785
14.3 Formulation Examples of Children's Cosmetics 785
14.3.1 Baby Powder 785
14.3.2 Children's Skincare Lotions and Creams 789
14.3.3 Baby Oil 795
14.3.4 Infant Shampoo 797
14.3.5 Children's Shower Gel 801
Chapter 15 High-Tech Cosmetics 805
15.1 Controlled Release Carriers 805
15.1.1 Liposome Cosmetics 805
15.1.2 Microcapsule Cosmetics 810
15.1.3 Polymer Microsphere Carrier Cosmetics 814
15.1.4 Nanoparticle Microsphere Carrier Cosmetics 815
15.2 Composite Emulsions 816
15.2.1 Properties of Composite Emulsions 816
15.2.2 Preparation of Composite Emulsions 817
15.2.3 Factors Affecting the Formation of Composite Emulsions 817
15.2.4 Formulation Examples of Composite Emulsions 818
15.3 Microemulsions 818
15.4 Liquid Crystal Cosmetics 819
15.4.1 Properties of Liquid Crystal Cosmetics 819
15.4.2 Formulation Examples of Liquid Crystal Cosmetics 820
Part 4 Safety Evaluation of Cosmetics
Chapter 16 Safety Evaluation of Cosmetics 822
16.1 Hygienic Standards for Cosmetics 822
16.2 Safety Evaluation of Cosmetics 822
16.3 Methods of Safety Evaluation of Cosmetics 823
16.3.1 Toxicity 823
16.3.2 Acute Toxicity Tests 825
16.3.3 Skin Irritation Tests 826
16.3.4 Eye Irritation Tests 827
16.3.5 Skin Allergy Tests 828
16.3.6 Skin Phototoxicity Tests 828
16.3.7 Population Patch Tests 829
16.4 Subchronic and Chronic Toxicity Tests 829
16.4.1 Subchronic Toxicity Tests 830
16.4.2 Chronic Toxicity Tests 831
16.5 Teratogenic, Carcinogenic, and Mutagenic Tests 831
16.5.1 Teratogenic Tests 831
16.5.2 Carcinogenic Tests 832
16.5.3 Mutagenic Tests 832
Basic References