Cultural Clothing Lecture (4): Jackets & Overcoats

Author: (Japan) Bunka Fashion College
Translator: Fan Shulin
Editor-in-Chief: Wang Zhao
Publisher:
Publishing Date: 1998-09-01
Features: This book is the fourth volume in the series of higher vocational and technical education clothing textbooks. It mainly consists of two parts: Part 1 is for jackets, and Part 2 is for coats. The jacket section provides detailed explanations of the flat pattern drafting, patterns, and construction techniques for both men's and women's jackets. The coat section offers in-depth descriptions of the drafting, patterns, and construction techniques for men's and women's coats, as well as trench coats. This book serves as a textbook for higher vocational and technical education in the field of clothing, and can also be used as a technical improvement and training manual for vocational schools, garment workers, and technical personnel. It is also an excellent read for fashion enthusiasts.
Excerpt: Considering the need to wear a woolen sweater or sports top and coordinate it with a scarf or tie, extra room is added along the shoulder seams and neckline. The pleat at the center back is adjusted based on the bust size and fabric width. To emphasize the functional and aesthetic aspects of the shoulder, an additional 3 cm is added at the shoulder point. To adjust the waist size with a decorative belt, the buttons can be replaced with a clasp. Since this is a single-layer construction, the seams should be finished with a lockstitch or an overlock, and a 0.7 cm topstitch should be pressed from the right side (Figure 1-2-2). The method of making pockets with a broken seam (Figure 1-2-3):
① If the fabric is thin, such as cotton, the two pocket pieces can be made of the same material. If the fabric is thick, such as wool, use pocket fabric on the front side and the same material on the outside.
② Align the body and pocket pieces. On the front piece, sew 0.1 cm away from the seam line toward the seam allowance, and sew along the seam line on the underarm piece. Edge the pieces before sewing.
③ Align the front piece and underarm piece with the wrong sides together, except for the pocket opening. Stitch the broken seam except for the pocket opening.