Mount Emei

Author: Editorial Board of "China Travel Guide"
Publisher:
Publishing Date: 2000-09-01
Features: This book is one of the "China Travel Guide" series, presenting information about Mount Emei's geographical distribution, names, landscapes, data, and more using scientific methods such as graphics, text, photographs, and color. It helps readers gain a comprehensive overview of Mount Emei, including itineraries, scenic spots, highlights, tourism services, travel tips, and nearby attractions. The book is rich in information, highly practical, artistically designed, and beautifully printed. In people's eyes, Mount Emei is a world of immortals and an ocean of Buddha, alongside Mount Wutai in Shanxi, Mount Jiuhua in Anhui, and Mount Putuo in Zhejiang, forming China's Four Sacred Mountains. There is also a beautiful legend about the origin of Mount Emei. Once, Mount Emei was just a massive, grayish-white rock, towering into the sky, lifeless and barren. To build a beautiful homeland, a clever stonecutter and his skillful wife, a flower-potter, resolved to carve the rock into a lush mountain with their hands. Moved by their determination and effort, the gods in heaven helped them. With the gods' assistance, the stonecutter carved the rock into rolling mountains and deep gorges, while the potter tossed her carefully embroidered cloth and colorful handkerchiefs into the sky. The colorful handkerchiefs drifted to the summit, turning into dazzling rainbow halos; the cloth handkerchiefs fluttered over the mountain, transforming into lush forests, cascading waterfalls, blooming flowers, singing birds, leaping monkeys, and roaming beasts. Mountains rose in dance, and rivers sang in joy. Because this mountain resembled the eyebrows of the potter, people named it Mount Emei.
To climb Mount Emei, one can behold countless breathtaking sights. For example, the Rulai Hall in Wanren Temple, the "Morning Mist of Hongchunping," the "Misty Huayan Peak" and "Moonlit Elephant Pool" at Xixiangchi, the Zangjingshu of Baoguo Temple, and the solemn and majestic Buddha statues, among others. Let me describe them to you:
From Xixiangchi to the Golden Summit of Mount Emei, the path is filled with swirling mist and clouds that blanket the valleys. The vast white clouds resemble cotton, swaying like thin gauze in the mountain wind, shrouding the peaks. Standing atop the Golden Summit, one gazes down at the Chengdu Plain stretching for five hundred miles: to the left are the Minjiang and Qingyi Rivers, winding like two giant serpents descending the mountain; to the right is the Dadu River, like a slender golden snake reaching the base. The rivers and roads are both the color of coarse yellow, surrounded by lush mountains and emerald fields, creating a stunning natural tapestry.
Looking at the waist of the Golden Summit, the scenery becomes even more magical. Sometimes, misty clouds drift by in swirling patterns, intermingling black, gray, creamy white, and golden hues, displaying endless variations. At other times, the sky is uniform, as if travelers are on an island, surrounded by boundless vastness.
Buddha Light and Holy Lantern
The bronze hall on the main peak of Mount Emei, glowing with golden light, is called the Golden Summit. Here, there is a natural wonder called the "Buddha Light" or "Holy Lantern," captivating all who witness it. At 2 PM, we reached the Golden Summit, and the clouds above cleared just as we did. Standing on the cliff, with hands on the iron railing, we looked down at the mountain's waist, where a massive, seven-colored halo appeared in the white mist. Shaking our hands, the angle of the light changed, as if we were looking in a mirror, allowing us to see our own reflections.
What is amazing is that even when many people try to see it, they can only see their own reflections—floating and swaying, mysterious and profound. Inspired by this, at 8 PM that evening, we also saw the Holy Lantern. Sitting on the grassy field of the Golden Summit, we suddenly noticed countless so-called "Buddha lights" flickering and floating from different directions in the heavy mist. Some looked like lit candles, others like blooming lotuses, and others like flowing fireflies. But when we reached out to grab them, they vanished into thin air, sparking endless imagination among the travelers.
Locals say that Buddha Light usually appears in the afternoon on clear, windless days when the sea of clouds is calm, with the sun slanting. It is especially common between 2 PM and 6 PM in autumn and winter.
The Dangerous Path to the Golden Summit
From Baoguo Temple to the Golden Summit, the journey is filled with towering peaks, giant rocks, sheer cliffs, and waterfalls that roar like thunder for dozens of miles. The path includes the Five Li Slope, Elephant Nose Slope, Linked View Slope, Seven Li Slope, and the Ninety-Nine Bends. Every step makes one sweat profusely, making it easy to understand why the ancients sighed, "The road to Shu is as difficult as climbing the sky."
A few miles further from the "Qingyin Pavilion," where only the sound of thunder echoes, is the "Black River Corridor." The "Black River" refers to a mighty mountain stream, and the "corridor" is a path built along the river's winding course, following the towering and steep mountain terrain. This corridor, nestled against the mountain and beside the stream, winds and curves for miles, with mountain scenery and cloud shadows stretching endlessly. Walking along it, one is shaded by trees above and cooled by streams below. The gurgling of springs harmonizes with the heartbeat, while the chirping of cicadas and birds fills the air with endless melodies. The blooming flowers, welcoming and approaching, are even more dazzling and enchanting!
The Monkeys of Mount Emei
Mount Emei is lush with vegetation, flowers, and fruits, and is home to a variety of birds and animals. Among them, the monkeys of Mount Emei are particularly extraordinary, communicating with humans, and are a favorite among tourists. Unlike monkeys elsewhere, which are fierce and unreasonable, these monkeys are gentle, civilized, and polite.
On our way from the Golden Summit to Wanren Temple, we were greeted by an elderly woman coming up from the mountain. She said, "There are many monkeys ahead!" We immediately excitedly adjusted our cameras and ran down the mountain. After about two miles, we saw an old, fat monkey sitting in the path, as if it knew we were coming and was greeting us. When we offered it the rice dumplings we had brought, it devoured them with great delight. Just as I was about to take its photo, it bared its teeth and moved to the side, as if saying, "Thank you, don't waste film!"
I looked at it helplessly and tossed the dumplings to it, shouting, "Monkeys, eat this!" In response, a chorus of squeaks echoed as branches shook and green waves rippled. More than ten monkeys, young and old, came running, waiting obediently by the roadside with outstretched hands. They took the food one by one without fighting. When the food was in their paws, they ate it, blinking their little eyes as if listening to instructions. Visitors could freely pat their heads, creating a scene of perfect harmony between humans and monkeys.
The monkeys of Mount Emei are elusive, often appearing in places like Jiulong Cave, Xixiangchi, and Wanren Temple. They usually travel in groups, ranging from a few to dozens. All are glossy-haired, graceful, gentle, and lively.
The journey to Mount Emei is unforgettable and leaves a lasting impression.