China Travel Guide - Songshan

Author: Compiled by the Editorial Committee of "China Travel Guide"
Publisher:
Publishing Time: Not Available
Features: Songshan is hailed as a museum of China's historical development, where Confucianism, Buddhism, and Taoism converge, boasting numerous historical relics. Among them are the Six Great Sites of China:
- The Chan Buddhist Monastery (Shaolin Temple), the ancestral temple of Chan Buddhism in China;
- The Shaolin Pagoda Forest, the largest existing pagoda forest in China;
- The Beiwèi Songshan Pagoda, the oldest existing pagoda in China;
- The Han Sanque, the oldest existing gate towers in China;
- The Han "General Cypress," the oldest existing cypress trees in China;
- The Gaocheng Yuan Dynasty Astronomical Observatory, the oldest existing observatory in China.
Additionally, the Zhongyue Temple, built in the Qin Dynasty and flourishing during the Tang and Song dynasties, is the largest temple complex in Henan. The Songshan Academy, grand and elegant, was one of the Four Great Academies of Song Dynasty China alongside the Suoyang, Yuelu, and White Deer Cave Academies. Together with the lush and tranquil Fawang Temple, the winding and perilous Xuanyuan Pass, and the Lixue Pavilion where Huike cut off his arm in meditation—each are treasures of Chinese cultural landscapes. Where else can such a concentration of Chan Buddhism be found? Only on Songshan!! To visit this tranquil and mysterious Buddhist sanctuary and experience its serenity may become a cherished wish for every traveler!
Songshan is a Buddhist sacred site, and Shaolin Temple is its most captivating destination. On the way to Shaolin Temple (which, of course, is a route from Luoyang to Dengfeng in the morning), you can stop by six places first. The courtyard of the Gaocheng Yuan Dynasty Astronomical Observatory is tranquil, where the Duke of Zhou measured the heavens, and Guo Shoujing observed the stars, laying the foundation for Chinese astronomy. The bullet holes left by Japanese artillery on the eastern wall of the observatory remind me of similar scars on the Wanping City walls near the Lugou Bridge. The Zhongyue Temple stands majestic and lofty, with dense forests and the imposing iron guardian statues. In the painted murals of the side halls, Bao Zheng, Hai Rui, Guan Yu, and Yue Fei are all revered figures.
Inside the Songshan Academy, the "General Cypress" trees are comically twisted in laughter, while the "Second General Cypress" seems to fume in anger. The towering and magnificent Songshan Pagoda, the colorful and eerie Fawang Temple—all leave a lasting impression!
By noon, you can reach the thousand-year-old Shaolin Temple. As you get off the bus, a bronze statue of a Shaolin warrior with his left fist pressed against his right palm greets you, exuding an aura of majesty. Walking toward Shaolin, the sides are lined with countless souvenir shops selling Shaolin specialties—swords, spears, daggers, and more!
Stepping into the world-famous Shaolin Temple, (to be honest) its architectural scale is much smaller than expected. This temple, revered as the birthplace of Chinese Chan Buddhism, lacks grandeur, a result of its long history. Shaolin Temple was founded in the Northern and Southern Dynasties period (496 AD). During the early Tang Dynasty, when Prince Li Shimin defeated Wang Shichong, 13 Shaolin monks played a role and were rewarded. Later, Empress Wu Zetian held a sacrifice on Songshan, and Shaolin Temple flourished, with over 5,000 halls and pavilions, becoming a renowned Buddhist temple with over 2,000 monks at its peak. After the Qing Dynasty, Shaolin Temple declined, especially after the 17th year of the Republic of China, when warlord Shi Yousan burned down the temple, destroying many magnificent halls and precious artifacts like temple records, martial arts manuals, and scriptures.
Today, the buildings visitors see in Shaolin Temple are mostly restored since the early 1980s, with only some fire-resistant steles still bearing traces of antiquity. These steles are mostly located along the shaded path behind the temple gate, including the precious stele inscribed by Emperor Taizong of Tang, the "Praise to Guanyin" stele written by Su Dongpo in the Song Dynasty, and others.
After exploring Shaolin Temple, you might see only a handful of monks. It is said that there are only dozens of resident monks there now, which is hard to believe. From all over the world, many come to Shaolin Temple to practice martial arts, but they do so outside the temple.
Visiting Shaolin Temple is incomplete without exploring the Pagoda Forest. Here lie the tombs of abbots, patriarchs, and chief abbots of the temple, as well as heroes who fought against Japanese invaders and guarded the borders. They were great contributors to both the nation and the temple, and even after death, their spirits protect Shaolin. Walking through the pagodas is like reading a condensed history of Shaolin Temple, as if you can converse with the monks and hear them recount the temple's millennia of struggles. Unfortunately, the deceased are not always respected—some climb the pagodas, some with arrogance, some pretending to be pious. Cameras capture them, and I wonder if they know what it means to commit sins.
After visiting the Pagoda Forest, it might start raining, which adds to the charm. Take the Songyang Cableway to Bobei Peak, and the "General Cypress" in the Erzu An will leave a deep impression—so straight, so thick, so tall, so lush, standing alone, calm yet heavy, paired with the faint scent of incense and the gentle rain, your heart becomes as calm as water.
After visiting the Erzu An where Huike once healed and practiced, head west to the Sanhuangzhai Forest Park. The path winds through the, up and down, tiring but pleasant with birds chirping, the wind whispering, and the sound of flowing water.
Below "Monkeys Watching the Sea," there are vast natural rock walls, towering and majestic. The suspended walkway built on the cliffs is perilous, with some rocks so fragile that a light tap turns them to powder. Your climbing skills must be impressive too. The mountain is not crowded, but at times, you can hear a roar from a distant trail. A suspension bridge spans two mountains, swaying as you cross, and you can’t help but hope it won’t collapse like the Qijiang Rainbow Bridge in Chongqing.
"," "," "," "," and ""—taking a shortcut, you also get to practice rock climbing.
At a cliff called Yangbang Cliff, standing on the rocks, the vast wilderness stretches before you, misty and ethereal. A gentle breeze stirs the rain, stirring your emotions. Take a deep breath and roar with passion—your voice echoes through the mist and the void, filled with a sense of grand ambition. At this moment, a longing for the past may arise from your heart!
Of course, to fully explore Songshan’s attractions, you’ll need at least two days. If you have the time, you can leisurely visit all the places mentioned above.