Xu Xiake, My Travel Guide

Author: Ye Guizhen
Publisher:
Publish Date: 2006-09-01
Features: Xu Xiake originally wrote that traveling seventy li north of Beitai, the mountain begins to open up, known as Dongdishan. The northern end of Taishan borders the territory of Fanzhi. On the ninth day, I left the southern mountains. The Great Creek flowing from the mountains turned westward. I rode north to the flatlands and looked at the surrounding mountains, which were no more than a tenth of the height of Taishan, winding like a low wall (wall: a short fence) in the east, connecting Pingxing, and in the west, joining Yanmen, stretching fifteen li straight across. North of the mountain foot, I crossed the Sha River to Shahe Fortress. Leaning against the mountain, overlooking the river, the fortress was built with bricks and tiles, sturdy and well-structured. Seventy li northwest of the fortress, through Xiaoshikou, was the western road to Datong; sixty li straight north through Beilukou was the eastern road to Datong. I climbed the mountain behind the fortress, about several li northeast to Xikou, where water flowed from north to south, eventually joining the Sha River. Following the water into the gorge, the stream twisted and turned through a desolate valley, empty of people. Several li later, there was Yixingzhai. Several li further, Zhujiafang. Another several li brought me to Huluzui. Leaving the ravine and climbing the mountain along the, the land formed into a depression, and the stream flowed north, marking the boundary of Hunyuan. Several li more brought me to Tuling, sixty li away from the prefecture and fifty li southwest of Shahe. I stopped at the home of a family with the same surname.
On the tenth day, I followed the northern stream three li south and met another stream coming from the west, which then turned northeast and continued. I followed the western stream upstream and came across another stream from the north, so I climbed the western ridge. The path was very steep. Six or seven li straight north, then turning west, I climbed five or six li more northward, ascending two peaks and reaching the summit, known as Jiananzhongling. From Shahe, climbing the mountain and crossing the streams, I wound through the valleys, encountering only mounds of earth and desolate hills. Unexpectedly, here I suddenly ascended to the open sky. Yet, the southern side of the mountain still seemed like a novice. Once past the ridge, I looked down at the connected peaks and cliffs, with emerald flying and crimson flowing. Everything hanging in the sky and reflecting each other were rocks, yet the rocks were covered with trees. The color of the rocks was uniform, but their essence and beauty varied. The colors of the trees were diverse, yet their interweaving formed a tapestry. The rocks, covered with trees, appeared more majestic and overhanging, as if adorned with vibrant colors, making them even more extraordinary. The trees, supported by rocks, spread out and twisted, appearing more rugged and ancient. For fifty li, the scenery descended directly to the bottom of the valley, where a rushing stream flowed from south to north, eventually emerging from the depression, known as Longyu Kou, with the fortress nearby. The village was prosperous, with many plum and apricot trees, forming dense forests at the foot of the mountain. Once out of the valley, I found myself on flat land again. To the north, another range of mountains encircled the area, stretching from east to west. Thirty li east of Hunyuan Prefecture and seventy li west of Yingzhou. Longyu, facing the external mountains, was as high and distant as Dongdishan looking at the mountains near Shahe Kou.
Thus, I followed the eastern side of the mountain and looked east at the Longyu Valley. The mountains became more jagged and steep, and upon inquiry, I learned they were called Longshan. The name Longshan was well-known in Shanxi, yet few knew it was comparable to Hengshan. Now, having crossed its boundary to the west and looked at its northern face, I unexpectedly discovered it, which could be considered a rewarding experience like the "Old Age of the Five Tai" mountains. Ten li east was Longshan Dàyun Temple, facing the mountain to the south. Another ten li east, there was a major road heading northwest, straight to the foot of Hengshan. I turned and followed it, ten li away from the mountain foot. The two peaks of Hengshan stood like pillars, with carriages and riders arriving continuously, breaking through the cliffs. This was the Damao and Zijing road from Datong. Following it to the foot of the mountain, the two cliffs stood vertically, with a stream flowing in the middle, piercing through cracks and narrowing like having no direction, winding up and down in a secluded manner. The Double Peaks of Yique and the Nine Curves of Wuyi were not enough to compare to it. At that time, the clear stream had not yet risen, so we had to follow the stream upstream.
I do not know when the cliffs were carved with stone steps, about four or five feet wide and over a foot deep, arranged in rows. I imagine that during flood season, wooden walkways were inserted to cross the stream.