A World Through an Economist's Eyes (Xu Qianqing's Travelogue)

Author: Xu Dianqing
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Publishing Time: Not available
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(1) Upon arriving at the Mogao Caves, just outside the airport terminal, we were greeted by the uniquely designed Dunhuang Airport. The earthen-gray walls and small windows resemble a fortress, as if telling people that you have passed through a time tunnel and entered the Han and Tang dynasties. Despite its size, Dunhuang Airport stands out like a camel in a flock of sheep compared to the surrounding residential areas. The local residents' houses are all single-story structures, similar to miniature Beijing siheyuan complexes. However, the side rooms are very close together, with their mountain walls connected, forming a gate in the middle. The courtyard is only slightly larger than a single room. Some families build grape arbors in their courtyards, integrating three rooms into one. Why is there such limited space for construction in the vast northwest? The driver replied, "It's windy, and winter is cold." We drove directly from the airport to the Mogao Caves. As soon as we left the airport, the driver said, "Hold onto your seats." Just as I was puzzling, the car immediately began to bounce up and down. The asphalt road ahead was like a washing board. The driver smiled bitterly, saying, "This section is on saline-alkali land, which oozes moisture from below and returns to this condition after only a few days. Fortunately, the area of saline-alkali land isn't too large." After bidding farewell to the airport's poplar trees, the car entered the Gobi Desert. Stretching as far as the eye can see, the flat plain was scattered with large and small rocks, and a smooth road extended to the horizon. I asked the driver, "Why isn't there any sand in the Gobi Desert?" "Because it's windy," he replied. "When the wind blows, people can't stand, and sand can't either. On the Gobi Desert, you can even drive without a road, though there's a path without rocks where you can go faster. In fact, you could even drive with your eyes closed—it's just that you might end up bouncing on the rocks of the Gobi Desert." As soon as we left Dunhuang City, we saw small flags planted in the Gobi Desert, with dozens of military vehicles practicing maneuvers—this is truly the best training ground in the world. Walking through the Gobi Desert, except for the sand dunes stirred up behind us, there was nothing else. The desert was desolate and ethereal. There were no trees, no houses, no rolling hills or mountains, not even small roadside grasses. Here, nature frowned with sternness, monotonous and barren, not even a single mosquito could be seen. The Gobi Desert is like a cold killer; at any moment, it could raise its sharp sword in the form of a fierce wind, blowing visitors away without a trace. No one likes the desert, but without such a killer, who would protect the Mogao Caves? While driving, a mountain appeared faintly on the horizon. The driver said, "That's Mingsha Mountain—the Mogao Caves are near." In the distant sky, the snow-capped Qilian Mountains stood tall, their peaks cutting through the clouds and rain, turning into snow and glaciers. In summer, the snow melts, and the water flows into two rivers: the Dang River nourishes Yangguan and Dunhuang, while the Shule River waters Yumen Pass. After bringing a few oases, these two rivers disappear at the last village on the edge of the desert. Mingsha Mountain is primarily composed of sandstone. Normally, sandstone is soft and not suitable for sculpture, but special geography and climate have made the Mogao Caves possible. If caves were carved into sandstone in the Jiangnan region, they would likely collapse and disappear within a few decades. The craftsmen carved numerous caves into the cliffs of Mingsha Mountain, carving the foundations and skeletons of Bodhisattvas and Buddhas into the sandstone. Then, they mixed clay with reeds from the desert to shape vivid and lifelike Buddhas, Bodhisattvas, and Arhats. Finally, they used mineral pigments from the Qilian Mountains to paint the murals, filling the walls of the caves with Buddhist stories. The Mogao Caves combine sculpture, clay sculpture, and painting into one, truly making them a treasure of Chinese culture. The guardian of the Mogao Caves, besides the desert, is also the dry climate. Here, the annual rainfall is only 40 millimeters, less than a single spring rain in the Jiangnan region. The endless drifting sand is the main work of the museum staff. At the center of the Mogao Caves, from the outside, it appears as a nine-story tower built into the mountain. Entering through the mountain gate, hello—there stands a giant Buddha over 30 meters tall. Standing in front of the Buddha, only two feet are visible; only when looking up can you see the lower jaw of the Buddha. P40-41