Reckless. Yangshuo - Spending Time (5)

Author: Air Couple
Publisher:
Publish Date: 2006-09-01
Features: Biliang Peak, also known as Jian Mountain, is named so because a section of its northern cliff face is smooth as a mirror. The scenery is indeed beautiful—walking along the mountain paths with the Li River in view, fishing boats, and the setting sun can easily make one forget worldly troubles. Why bother searching for the so-called "Ancient Banyan Tree Hides Cats," one of the Eight Scenic Spots of Yangshuo? The Yingjiang Pavilion is quite unique, with red pillars, white ridges, green tiles, and flowered eaves. It is adorned with green jade decorations on the roof and scaled fish at the corners, while the hanging eaves are decorated with various fruits. It also features calligraphy by the renowned calligrapher Wu Chundao, inscribing Han Yu's lines: "The river serves as a silk gauze, and the mountains resemble jade hairpins." Even the "great figures" couldn't resist the urge to leave their mark, taking photos to show they had visited: former U.S. President Richard Nixon, former U.N. Secretary-General Dali Quailier, Zhou Enlai and his wife, Chen Yi and his wife—not only took photos but also left their footprints. Look at this cliff face, some as tall as several meters, others as small as half a centimeter; in calligraphy styles ranging from running script to regular script, including Yan, Liu, Ou, Su, and more, each displaying its own charm. Locals say that the poem by Wu Mai on the cliff face, "Guilin's landscapes are the best under heaven, and Yangshuo is the best in Guilin. The peaks reflect in the water, and without water or mountains, one cannot fully appreciate the scenery," is beautifully written in bold and elegant strokes, reminiscent of Wang Xizhi's style. As an outsider, I prefer the inscription by Lin Shaonian of the Qing Dynasty: "High mountains and long rivers." There is also the "Jiangshan Suoyao," supposedly a large calligraphy by Chen Qilong of the Ming Dynasty. By 1920, Du Baochen of Guangzhou wrote a poem here: "The river flows, and the stones do not turn; the mountains stand, and the water struggles to move. Locked in by ancient paths, when will the key return?"—a poem with each line starting with a different character. There is also the verse by the famous Song Dynasty prime minister Li Gang, who passed through Yangshuo by water and left behind: "Leaving meals to rest my chin, I gaze at the emerald peaks. Such mountains are rare in the world. I cannot learn Wang Wei's hand, but paint a thousand peaks and valleys." However, the stone carver mistakenly carved "gang" instead of "gang," turning "Li Gang" into "Li Gang." Fortunately, the meanings are similar, and his reputation remains untarnished. There is also the verse by the Tang Dynasty's Shen Bin: "Taotian's five willows in Pengze, Pan Yu's flowers in Heyang. Neither compares to Yangshuo's beauty; in Biliang Peak, people live." The most famous scenic spot in Biliang Peak is the "Dai" character inscribed on the cliff. From a distance, you can see it. This "Dai" character is 5.732 meters tall and 2.91 meters wide. Look closely—can you see the characters within? The author of this "Dai" character is Wang Shouren, who served as the acting magistrate of Yangshuo during the Daoguang era of the Qing Dynasty. He is said to be a descendant of Wang Xizhi and was a renowned calligrapher known for writing large characters, hailed as a "calligraphy wonder." This "Dai" character inscribed on the cliff contains eight characters: "One belt holds the mountains and rivers, young people strive hard." Some say it contains fourteen characters: "One belt holds the mountains and rivers, the best under heaven, young people strive hard, talents of the world." Others say it contains sixteen characters: "One belt holds the mountains and rivers, unmatched in the world, young people strive hard, fame lasts for ages!" With a gentle breeze, watch the Li River sparkle under the sunlight. Just take a moment to sit here and relax. Next to the ferry crossing is a "Righteous Ferry" stele, with the characters "Righteous Ferry" inscribed in the 21st year of the Guangxu era of the Qing Dynasty (1895). It was funded by the Wenjiang Association of the Wanshou Palace, who hired to ferry passengers across, fearing extortion by ferry operators. This stele was erected to commemorate the effort. In 1978, the Yangshuo Bridge was completed, and the ferry was abolished. Today, the ferry crossing still exists, along with the ferry boat. "If you want to cross the river, leave some money." Next to the ferry crossing is a naturally formed stone jetty, inscribed on it...