Pineapple

Author: Liu Li'an
Publisher:
Publish Date: 2003-01-01
Features:
Light cultivation is ideal for ornamental bromeliads. Light is a very important condition, and the duration and intensity of light have a significant impact on plants. Ornamental bromeliads native to tropical rainforests with soft leaves prefer semi-shaded environments, so shading is needed when light is strong. Strong light can cause scorching at the tips and edges of leaves. Bromeliads from other regions may require slightly stronger light, with some needing a certain amount of direct sunlight, which helps maintain the stripes and vibrant colors of the leaves. If these plants are placed in overly shaded environments, their leaf characteristics will gradually disappear. For some cultivars, especially those with gold edges or variegated leaves, differences in light intensity can cause significant changes in leaf color. Only under consistent light conditions will the plant's performance become uniform.
The desert-dwelling genera, small epiphytic plants covered in gray fuzz, prefer strong sunlight. At home, they should be placed near south-facing windows, and artificial light should be supplemented during winter when daylight hours are insufficient. If the light is insufficient, the leaves will become thin and elongated, and flowering will be difficult. Under high humidity conditions, the intensity of light can be increased moderately. At this time, the plants will grow faster. Due to high air humidity, strong light will not scorch the leaves.
Bromeliads have varying requirements for water. Those native to rainforests need misting or spraying to maintain air moisture, and for these bromeliads, spraying is more important than watering. However, the roots do not require excessive moisture. If the cultivation medium has high water content and poor drainage and permeability, the roots may remain in a waterlogged state, often leading to root and crown rot. Leafy types with hard textures allow for short periods of dryness. Those with tightly packed central leaves can hold a small amount of water. For plants that are clearly about to bloom or infected with mold, water should not be placed in the center of the leaves.
Bromeliads adapted to desert environments naturally require minimal water and can tolerate drought. Therefore, these plants rarely die easily. Once a week of watering is sufficient during spring and summer, while water should be reduced during autumn and winter, depending on room temperature and plant growth conditions. For example, if a Vriesea grows on wood, the moisture in the air is enough for it to thrive. Watering and misting should be adjusted according to the season. During the growing season, spraying in the morning and evening is best. However, during cold months when plant growth is slow or dormant, spraying once or twice a week is sufficient. In winter, when indoor temperatures drop below 15°C, spraying should be stopped. If the room is too dry, only the ground and the plant's surroundings can be sprinkled during midday when temperatures are relatively higher to alleviate dryness.
In areas with hard water, rainwater should be used to water plants as much as possible, as tap water in these regions is alkaline and can leave mineral residues on the leaves, forming white spots and making the leaves unattractive. Ornamental bromeliads prefer acidic soil, with a pH value below 7. Long-term use of alkaline water can lead to poor nutrient absorption and the occurrence of crown rot.
The ideal relative humidity for ornamental bromeliads is between 50–75%. Below 40%, plant growth slows, leaves become dry, and the plant appears lifeless. Above 80%, plants are prone to etiolation and diseases.
Bromeliads, like most epiphytes, prefer well-ventilated growing conditions, so they enjoy climbing high. Circulating air brings fresh moisture to the plants. Poor ventilation can lead to a lack of oxygen and carbon dioxide, slowing plant growth. However, excessive ventilation is also unsuitable for ornamental bromeliads, as it can cause leaf tips to dry out.
Fertilization
Ornamental bromeliads have weak root absorption capabilities and primarily serve to anchor the plant. Fertilization is mainly done through foliar spraying, with a ratio of nitrogen-phosphorus-potassium of 1:0.5:1 and a fertilizer concentration of 0.1–0.2. Once a week during the growing season is recommended. Some fertilizer can also be placed in the leaf cup. Terrestrial species like Vriesea can be fertilized more through root application, using general compost fertilizer diluted with water. For ornamental bromeliads, foliar spraying is the primary method, with root fertilization serving as a supplement. Fertilization can be stopped in winter.
Growth and Dormancy
Ornamental bromeliads have corresponding growth and dormancy periods. Most enter dormancy in winter, with temperatures, light, water, and humidity not being too high, and temperatures controlled at 15°C. During the growing season, conditions should be optimized, especially in terms of fertilizer supply.
Pest and Disease Control
Ornamental bromeliads have leathery leaves and are covered with waxy scales, making them rarely affected by pests and diseases. In natural environments, bromeliads may die quickly after being attacked by pests. However, under cultivation, they are much easier to control. Mealybugs, which commonly harm cacti and succulents, are also major enemies of bromeliads. Mealybugs often appear in groups, clustering on the leaves, causing significant damage to the plants and making them unattractive. Vriesea and Aechmea are particularly susceptible to mealybugs. Chemical control is very effective. Spraying 3 times with a 1000-fold solution of omethoate or a 2000-fold solution of imidacloprid can eliminate mealybugs. A small number of mealybugs can be brushed off. (Greenhouse spiders) should not be treated as a major greenhouse pest but are still annoying, as they weave webs on the plants for movement. They can be manually captured.
Fungal diseases have little impact on ornamental bromeliads. According to records, a fungus can attack Aechmea in commercial production, but this is not commonly observed in small numbers of plants. Vriesea and Nidularium need attention, as retaining central leaf rosettes after flowering can lead to fruiting but also makes them more susceptible to fungal attacks in overly wet conditions. The solution is to change the water regularly.
Viral infections can cause and brown leaves. There is no cure for this disease, so affected plants should be removed immediately to prevent others from being infected.
Crown rot is a common disease where the central leaf rosette becomes soft and rots. This is caused by long-term use of alkaline water or excessive fertilizer concentration in water towers. Adjusting the pH of the water and controlling fertilizer concentration can solve this problem.
Overall, ornamental bromeliads have few pests and diseases and are easy to control.
Propagation Techniques
Seeding Propagation
The advantage of seeding is the large number of seedlings produced. After flowering, the plant can also produce seeds. In nature, some species like Vriesea can self-pollinate and set fruit. However, some species require insects for pollination. Tillandsia provides only a short period for pollination during flowering. Some species only bloom at night. Temperature is another factor affecting pollination success. Under artificial cultivation, due to the lack of suitable pollinators, hand pollination is necessary to produce fruit. When the fruit is ripe, it can be collected, seeds removed, and washed with clean water for simple disinfection. The fuzz on the seeds should be removed, and (full and plump) seeds should be selected, dried, and stored in paper bags in the refrigerator. Most genera of seeds can remain viable for several months, but seeds stored for a long time may have reduced germination rates.
1. Seeding Time
Seeding is generally divided into spring and autumn. Spring seedlings have a longer growth period, while autumn seedlings' seedling growth coincides with winter, making them less favorable than spring seedlings. Under greenhouse conditions, there is little difference between spring and autumn seeding.