Shanghai WALTZ

Author: Shufen
Publisher:
Publish Date: 2004-05-01
Features: A series of fleeting moments, a collection of rediscovered old dreams, and a pile of unforgettable memories, all transformed into—voluminous notes, akin to a Viennawaltz on the bustling streets of Shanghai. I am now in my seventies. Over the years, I have attended numerous weddings. When I was around five or six, I was chosen more than once to be a "silk-tie boy," alongside another boy of similar age, to pull the long train of the bride's gown as we slowly walked through the hall to the wedding march. The two "silk-tie boys" and the little girl carrying the flower basket in front of the bride, who together were called "young attendants." The young attendants were usually selected from the children of the bride's family, and their small suits were provided by the bride's family. Regardless of gender, the selection criteria were always two: being handsome and well-mannered. But I was far from meeting either of these standards at the time. I had always been dark and somewhat unattractive, with a rather stubborn face, and being well-mannered was out of the question. I started crying when I first entered the kindergarten of the International School of Shanghai, and I was always considered by the teachers as a "restless student." Despite this, I was still often chosen to be a silk-tie boy. At the time, I had some self-awareness. Sometimes, watching the other young attendants at the wedding—those delicate and beautiful children—I would wonder to myself: how could I be paired with these "Western-style children"? It wasn’t until I grew older that I realized being a young attendant could also be considered a privilege or honor, a gesture of respect toward the family and even the entire family of the child chosen. For this reason, at some Western-style weddings in Shanghai, there were often young attendants like me who didn’t quite fit the image, appearing on stage for reasons that were best left unsaid. Due to my young age at the time, I can no longer remember which relatives’ weddings I was chosen for, nor can I recall the venues where those weddings took place. Among the weddings I attended as a child, the one I remember most clearly is my cousin Sun Qianhua’s.
The Shanghai Chinese-owned hotels were divided into four grades: Special, Class A, Class B, and Class C. There were only two Special-grade hotels in Shanghai, both on Jing’an Road. One was the International Hotel, a 24-story building standing 82 meters tall, completed in 1932. It was jointly built by the "Four Banks Savings Association," a joint venture of the four major private banks: Jincheng, Salt Industry, Zhongnan, and Continental. From its completion in 1932 to the 1960s, it remained the tallest building in Shanghai for over three decades, making it a landmark of the city. The International Hotel was the hotel with the most restaurants in Shanghai. The Fengzhalou on the second floor was famous for its Peking cuisine and could accommodate more than 50 banquet tables due to its spacious area. The Peacock Hall on the third floor was elegantly decorated, offering simple Western dishes and beverages. The Sky Lounge on the 14th floor was a large Western restaurant. With its glass roof that could be opened and closed, it hosted cooling dinners in the evenings during the summer. The Lushan Hall on the 15th floor was dedicated to Cantonese cuisine. The Cloud Tower, connecting the 18th and 19th floors, was the highest restaurant in the city at the time, serving authentic French Western cuisine. The furniture, decor, and tableware were all meticulously chosen—knives, forks, and spoons were made of silver, and the utensils were fine English porcelain. The dishes were also prepared with great care. All the tables on both floors were placed by the south-facing long windows, allowing diners to overlook