Collection of China NO:31 Mount Emei

Author: Xu Jiaguo
Publisher:
Publishing Date: 2004-01-01
Features: Mount Emei extends along its body, towering and winding. The main peak, Wanfo Peak, reaches a height of 3,099 meters, with its golden summit standing majestically, higher than the Five Great Mountains. It is also the highest among the Four Sacred Mountains of Buddhism. In people's eyes, Mount Emei is a world of immortals and an ocean of Buddha. It is renowned alongside Mount Wutai in Shanxi, Mount Jiuhua in Anhui, and Mount Putuo in Zhejiang as one of China's Four Sacred Mountains.
There is also a beautiful legend about the origin of Mount Emei. Once, Mount Emei was just a massive, square-shaped rock covering an area of over a hundred miles, with a grayish-white hue, towering towards the sky, and devoid of any vegetation. To build a beautiful homeland, a clever and skilled stonemason, along with his wife, an expert in embroidery, resolved to carve the rock into a lush mountain with their hands. Moved by their determination and effort, the gods in the heavens helped them. With the gods' assistance, the stonemason carved the rock into rolling mountains and deep gorges, while the embroideress tossed into the sky the carefully crafted cloth and colorful handkerchiefs she had sewn. The colorful handkerchiefs drifted to the summit, transforming into dazzling rainbow halos; the cloth handkerchiefs fluttered over the rock, turning into lush green forests, cascading waterfalls, blooming flowers, singing birds, leaping monkeys, and roaming beasts. The green mountains danced, and the clear waters sang. Because this mountain resembled the eyebrows of the embroideress, people named it Mount Emei.
When visiting Mount Emei, the breathtaking scenery is too numerous to behold. For example, the Rulai Hall in Wanfansi, the "Morning Mist of Hongchunping," the "Mist-Enveloped Huayan Peak" and "Moonlit Xiangchi Pool" in Xiangchi Pool, the Zangjing Building in Baoguo Temple, and the solemn and magnificent Buddha statues, among others. Allow me to describe them to you: From Xiangchi Pool to the Golden Summit, the path is filled with swirling mist, covering the valleys and gorges. The vast white clouds, like cotton balls, are stirred by the mountain wind, forming a thin veil of gauze over the peaks. Standing atop the Golden Summit, one gazes upon the 500-li Chengdu Plain below: on the left are the Min River and the Qingyi River, winding like two giant serpents descending the mountain; on the right is the Dadu River, like a slender golden snake reaching the very base. The rivers and roads are both a coarse yellow, surrounded by lush mountains and emerald fields, creating a stunning natural tapestry of light and color.
Looking further at the waist of the Golden Summit, the scenery becomes even more magical. Sometimes, the clouds and mist drift slowly, intermingling in black, gray, creamy white, and golden hues, displaying endless variations. At other times, the sky is uniform, as if travelers are on an island, surrounded by vastness. The bronze hall atop Mount Emei, with its golden glow, is known as the Golden Summit. Here, there is a natural wonder called the "Buddha Light" or "Sacred Lantern," captivating all who witness it.
At 2 p.m., we climbed to the Golden Summit and, by coincidence, the clouds above us cleared away. Standing on the cliff, with hands on the iron railing, we looked down at the mountain's waist, where, in the white mist, a giant rainbow halo appeared. Shaking our hands, the angle of the light changed, as if we were looking in a mirror, allowing us to see our own reflections. The most extraordinary part was that even when many people tried to see the halo, they could only glimpse their own shadows, floating and swaying, mysterious and elusive.
Inspired by the desire to witness the Buddha Light, at 8 p.m. that evening, we saw the Sacred Lantern. As we sat on the Golden Summit grassland, thick fog suddenly filled the air, and from different directions, countless so-called "Buddha Lights" appeared, flickering and dancing like candles, lotus flowers, or fireflies. However, when we reached out to touch them, they vanished into thin air, sparking endless imagination among the visitors.
Locals say the Buddha Light usually appears in the afternoon on clear, windless days when the clouds are calm and the sun slants at a low angle, especially between 2 and 6 p.m. in autumn and winter.
From Baoguo Temple to the Golden Summit, the journey is filled with towering peaks, sheer cliffs, and thunderous waterfalls that rush for dozens of miles. The path includes the Five Li Slope, the Elephant Nose Slope, the Consecutive View Slope, the Seven Li Slope, and the Ninety-Nine Bends. Each ascent leaves one drenched in sweat, making one appreciate the ancient saying, "The road to Shu is as difficult as climbing the sky."
A few miles further from the "Echoing Thunder Pavilion," where only the sound of thunder can be heard, lies the "Black River Trail." The "Black River" refers to a mighty mountain stream, while the "trail" is a pathway built along the winding course of the river, following the towering and steep mountain terrain. This trail, nestled against the mountains and beside the stream, winds through miles of breathtaking scenery. Walking along it, one is shaded by lush trees above and cooled by the flowing stream below. The murmuring of water harmonizes with the heartbeat, while the chirping of cicadas and birds fills the air. The blooming flowers, both near and far, add to the charm of the journey!
Mount Emei is lush with vegetation, abundant in flowers and fruits, and teeming with wildlife. Among them, the monkeys of Mount Emei are particularly extraordinary, communicating with humans and beloved by tourists. Unlike monkeys elsewhere, they are gentle, civilized, and polite.
As we ran from the Golden Summit to Wanfansi, we were greeted by an elderly woman who had come up from the mountain. She said, "There are many monkeys ahead!" We immediately excitedly adjusted our cameras and ran down the mountain. After about two miles, we saw a large, fat monkey sitting in the path, as if it knew we were coming and was greeting us. When we offered it the gifts we had brought—zongzi (sticky rice dumplings)—it devoured them with great delight. Just as I was about to take its photo, it bared its teeth and retreated to the side, as if to say, "Thank you, don’t waste your film!" I looked at it in frustration and tossed the dumplings to it, shouting, "Monkeys, here’s some food for you!" In response, a chorus of squeaks filled the air, and branches shook, creating waves of green. Over a dozen monkeys, young and old, came running, waiting obediently by the roadside with outstretched hands. They took the food one by one without, eating with their little eyes blinking like attentive children. It was as if they were willing to be touched on the head. This scene could be called a perfect harmony between humans and monkeys.
The monkey troops of Mount Emei are elusive. After eating, one old monkey would call out, and the others would climb the trees and retreat, first causing the branches to tremble, then the treetops to ripple with green waves, vanishing without a trace in an instant. What remains for the visitors is a sense of loss.
It is said that there are hundreds of monkeys on Mount Emei, often seen in groups of several to dozens, especially around Jiulong Cave, Xiangchi Pool, and Wanfansi. They are all glossy-haired, graceful, gentle, and lively.
The journey to Mount Emei is unforgettable and leaves one with endless memories.