Drink in the Republic of China

Author: Wang Weiguo
Publisher:
Publish Date: 2004-05-01
Features: Beyond the setting sun, the homing birds lose their traces. The fading light of the sunset is like a coin flipped over, transitioning from the stage to life. There is the clamor of neon lights and red wine, the intoxication of singing and dancing, the exhilaration of gambling, and the tranquility of birdsong and fragrant flowers. The Jiangsu Literature and Art Publishing House's series "Eating in the Republic of China," "Drinking in the Republic of China," "Having Fun in the Republic of China," and "Enjoying in the Republic of China" recreates the vibrant and colorful life of the Republic of China era. At dusk, the dinner at Yuan Shikai's "Presidential Palace" has just begun. On the table are the steamed ducks and braised Yellow River carp that Yuan Shikai particularly enjoys. He picks up the ivory chopsticks and first pierces the duck, rolling a large piece of skin onto the chopsticks in three quick moves, then skillfully puts it in his mouth. Under the bright lights of the early night, the Confucius Temple in Nanjing is bustling with people. In the Six Dynasties Tea House, some are drinking tea, others are singing, while vendors call out the cheap and delicious dumplings and shredded silk. Even poor students can spend a few coppers here to join the fun. Outside the Western-style bars in Shanghai, attractive bar girls stand by the door, eagerly greeting passersby in the dim light. In a heavily guarded mansion in Beijing, under the light, two people are playing Go, facing each other in a tense match—one is the Prime Minister of the Republic of China government, Duan Qirui, and the other is the Go genius Wu Qingyuan. Unlike general conceptual introductions and academic research works, this series of books starts from these life details, with characters, stories, and scenes unfolding vividly in the narration, as if watching a slide show from the past. Recently, a newspaper in Chengdu reported that a celebrity visited Chengdu for a performance, and fans flocked to see them. A young man was pushed and hit by the celebrity's bodyguards and slapped three times. After being beaten, the young man kept saying it was worth it, because these slaps were for the chance to get close to his idol. In this vast world, indeed, there are all kinds of people. While chasing and admiring stars, those who can offer luxury cars and mansions to celebrities achieve a very different outcome. The way of chasing stars in the Republic of China era was also different. In the sixth year of the Republic of China, Guangxi warlord Lu Rongting entered the capital and asked the former emperor and empress of the court, "Besides the Manchu-Han Feast, what else do you do?" Those in the know told him to listen to Tan Lao's opera. At that time, the Peking opera master Tan Xinpai was already seriously ill and no longer performed on stage. However, the warlord wanted to show off Tan Lao and threatened to destroy the theater and confiscate the family property if he didn't sing. Even though Tan Lao was a big name who had served the emperor and empress, he had no choice but to perform on stage despite his illness, singing "Three Stars Return." This performance turned out to be the last song of the master (see "Having Fun in the Republic of China"). The same goes for eating, drinking, and having fun—some taste, some extravagance, some value face, and some seek practicality. From these small matters of eating, drinking, and having fun, we can see the personality and character of the private lives of the great figures of the Republic of China era, as well as their relationship with their success or failure in their careers. This can also be said to be the charm of this series of books. The difference between eras may only lie in the sunlight and the stage, but beyond the setting sun and in life, it's all more or less the same. Just like the same prescription, personal tempering is different. As for the pleasures of the flesh, the intoxication of wealth and luxury, it's just that the setting sun remains the same, but the people and things have changed. Eating, drinking, and having fun involve both a big world and a higher realm. The Republic of China is not far from us, but we know little about it. History books mention it less, perhaps because starting from Zhoukoudian in Beijing and discussing the Qing Dynasty, the Republic of China section is comparatively less substantial and is just glossed over. "Drinking in the Republic of China" is one of Jiangsu Literature and Art Publishing House's "Republic of China" series, with a total of four books, categorized by "eating, drinking, and having fun." At first glance, it seems frivolous, but upon closer reading, it is merely another way of writing history from a different perspective. It turns out that in the Republic of China, there were already cafes that attracted customers with "grinding and brewing on the spot," and soda factories also flourished for a time. Drinking in the Republic of China. Although there is a Chinese saying that eating and drinking are inseparable. With wine and dishes, one must eat and drink to the fullest. Therefore, strictly separating eating and drinking was a bit skeptical before reading this book. In fact, the Chinese have clear distinctions regarding food and drink. "Drinking in the Republic of China" includes liquids such as tea, wine, soup, and broth. Simply put, it's about anything without teeth. What is more interesting, the book records the stories of a large number of Western drinks "invading" during the Republic of China era.