In love with wine

Author: Wu Shuxian
Publisher:
Publish Date: 2005-01-01
Features: This book introduces the basic knowledge of wine in a clear and concise manner, covering everything from the types, brewing, to the purchase, tasting, and storage of wine. It also delves into the classification and cultivation of grape varieties used in winemaking, as well as the consumption of wine. The author, with nearly a decade of experience as a wine critic, lends the book an undeniable authority and professionalism. At the same time, the author's concise writing style is tailored to the reading habits of Chinese readers, making the book both accessible and easy to follow. This book aims not only to introduce authentic and precise wine drinking knowledge to Chinese readers but also to promote a refined and healthy cultural habit. Therefore, the target audience for this book is urban white-collar workers, wine industry professionals, and those in the catering industry.
Excerpt: Wine Made from Water? I remember giving a lecture to consumers at a wine tasting event, and someone asked me this question. If I were a wine critic from abroad, I would either be stunned or burst into laughter. How could someone ask such a ridiculous question? Wine is, of course, 100% made from grapes—how could it be mixed with water? In a metropolis like Shanghai, it's not surprising that someone would ask this. Beyond the influence of the Chinese concept that "the better the water, the better the wine" (which applies to huangjiu and baijiu), there are indeed some products on the market that are mixed with water, dyes, and alcohol. These products are usually sweet and may even contain preservatives. Avoid them—our bodies won't benefit from them. Even if a Chinese stomach is strong enough that drinking them won't make you sick, consuming too much wine mixed with water, dyes, and flavoring agents is like eating MSG and smoked meat—too much is never good. These products cannot have the same health benefits as real wine, such as preventing cardiovascular diseases, lowering cholesterol, or improving skin health.
How can you tell the difference between these wines? The label is the key. The back label usually indicates the percentage of water and grape juice content. Even if the percentage of grape juice has been increased, it still cannot match 100% grape wine. Of course, there are also wines that have been mixed with water but are not labeled as such. However, if you have a basic understanding of wine, you will know how to identify them.
For real wine, can we add water or other things to it? In fact, whether you add something or not is a matter of personal preference. If you think it's good, it is. But you should understand the reasons behind it. If you add something, the aroma and flavor of the wine will be affected. Things like Sprite, Coke, ice, or iced water are better added to ordinary wine or wine with a mediocre flavor. If the wine is quite good and expensive, adding anything to it is simply a waste. I once witnessed someone at a club adding Sprite to a bottle of Chateau Lafite Rothschild, a wine from one of France's five most famous wine estates, worth over 2,000 yuan. It was truly a waste! I wanted to rush over and save it, offering to trade two boxes of Dynasty wine for it, but my friend pulled me back, telling me not to cause a scene. If the owner or winemaker of that estate saw this, they would be furious. Of course, if it's summer and you want to quench your thirst with inexpensive wine, adding other drinks to make it refreshing is a good idea.
Are these wines with added water and dyes truly wine? In foreign countries, they don't exist. Internationally recognized wine must be made entirely from grapes and grape juice. Although China had wine as early as the Tang Dynasty, modern wine was still introduced from the West. We are still unfamiliar with this wonderful beverage, and there are counterfeit and substandard products in society. After all, we can't expect every consumer to be an expert. However, wine is indeed a fascinating and delightful experience that enhances the quality of life. It's not just for the wealthy; you need to truly understand it. If we can appreciate its taste, enjoy its charm, learn about its terroir, and gain rich knowledge, why not?
Excerpt: Chardonnay—A Wine of Many Facets Summer is the best time to enjoy crisp, chilled white wine, and Chardonnay (also known as Sauvignon Blanc) is undoubtedly the top choice among white wines. Chardonnay, named after the grape variety, is a versatile and ever-changing beauty in the world of wine. Its homeland is Burgundy, France, a cool region north of the Chablis vineyard (wines labeled with "Chablis" on the label are 100% made from Chardonnay grapes). This place is so suitable for growing grapes that no other plants can thrive there. Thirty years ago, people might only know that Chablis white wine was delicious but not the name of the grape variety. However, things are different now. Its name is now famous worldwide, and no wine enthusiast is unfamiliar with it. If someone asked me which Chardonnay I prefer—purely a personal opinion, not representing a critic's stance—I would say I enjoy the traditional style of Chablis. The Chardonnay here ripens more slowly than in other places. Its original high acidity and the unique soil characteristics of the region make the wine appetizing when young (in white wine, acidity is the backbone, while fruitiness is the meat). The young wine has a stimulating acidity, crisp like damp stone, with scents of grass and green fruits. When it reaches maturity, usually after five to six years, it develops a damp, animal hide aroma, which is the peak of its ripeness. At this stage, Sauvignon Blanc's original high acidity, combined with aging, adds complexity and beneficial aromas, creating a rich and captivating quality, like oatmeal porridge. Labels that read Premier Cru or First Growth are excellent choices.
The heart of Burgundy is the "Golden Slopes" (C?te d'Or), where Grand Cru vineyards include Corton-Charlemagne, Le Montrachet, Batard-Montrachet, Chevalier-Montrachet, and Premier Cru Meursault. The wines from these regions are full and delicate, with flavors of hazelnut, licorice, and vegetable soup. It is generally believed that white wine cannot age, but Chardonnay from this region has great aging potential. While studying in France, I tasted a 30-year-old Chardonnay from this region that was still vibrant and full of flavor. At the time, I thought it could age further. However, due to market pressure, many wineries in Burgundy now age their wines faster and use new techniques like oak fermentation.
For New World Chardonnay, it's completely different from Burgundy in the Old World. New World Chardonnays are typically made from early-ripening grapes and mature quickly, so they should be consumed sooner. Among the New World regions, Australia and California excel with Chardonnay. The combination of these varieties with the soil and climate of these countries has pushed the wine to its peak. Australian Chardonnay has distinct characteristics, such as flavors resembling citrus or lemon, and they usually range from light green to deep gold. Australian winemakers have long known to use oak chips to infuse the wine with oak flavors when the grape yield is high, and they still use oak fermentation today. Some Chardonnays can age for several years, such as those from the Adelaide Hills and Margaret River in Australia.
California Chardonnay has diverse flavors, with rich, full-bodied wines generally being heavier and sweeter. This characteristic often comes from alcohol, as the region's ample sunlight helps the grapes ripen. Excellent Chardonnays from Carneros (part of Sonoma) in coastal vineyards and the Central Coast are reliable choices. Notable producers include Robert Mondavi, Talley, Flowers, Marcassin, Kistler, and Au Bon Climat. Chardonnay is also widely grown in New Zealand, where it is known for its cleanliness, green color, and crisp acidity. South African Chardonnay is appealing with smoky flavors. While Chilean red wines are outstanding, Chardonnay is considered more affordable. North American Chardonnay tends to be light and watery. China falls into the New World category as well. Recommended Chardonnays include Shanxi Yi Yuan, which uses French winemaking techniques but has a touch of New World style; Shandong Qingdao Huadong Chardonnay; and Xinjiang Xintianya Chardonnay.
At this point, you should have a general understanding of Chardonnay wine. When serving, light and young wines are best chilled to 6–8°C, while heavier, older wines are best served at 9–12°C.
Excerpt: Does Wine Have Life? At the end of last year, I attended a farewell dinner with friends, and one of them brought a bottle of wine that had been stored at home for a year. She opened it to try it. I said the wine was aging, and she was shocked to ask, "Susie, is wine an animal? How can it have life?" Ah, as a beverage, wine's shelf life doesn't truly reflect its essence. More accurately, it should be called its life span. Like humans, it goes through birth, youth, adulthood, middle age, old age, and death. The ripening of the grapes initiates the wine's life journey. However, the life cycle of each wine varies—shorter ones last six months, while longer ones can last over decades, with the best even reaching a century. For example, Yunnan Red and Beaujolais Nouveau in France are only good for half a year, while the first wines from famous estates like Latour, Haut-Bion, and Mouton in France may take ten years to mature. A 1900-year-old Margaux wine is still not fully ripe after a century! The ordinary wine we see on the market (known as Vin de Table) is best consumed when fresh, with a life span of 2–3 years. Of course, the life span of wine made from different grape varieties varies, mainly depending on the quality of the grapes. Wines made from high-quality grapes tend to have a longer life span.
I like to compare white wine to a woman because it contains acidity. A white wine without acidity is like a woman who doesn't get jealous—numb and lacking refinement. Different white wines are like different women—some are delicate and elegant, like a small-town beauty, while others are vibrant and fragrant, like a socialite. Perfect wines are like refined and graceful noblewomen, dressed impeccably and exuding wisdom. Some wines are like lively and youthful green apple girls, while others are like mature women with depth and charm. In the physical form of white wine, there are also women who are full-figured or slender.
Red wine is a man. A red wine with a rich structure is like a strong and robust man, while a thin wine is like a frail man. Men with high quality can overcome hardships and become great, just as high-quality wines will reveal their charm when fully mature, like velvet-covered iron fists, and their value will increase accordingly. Ordinary wine, however, will only decline with time.
Like men, red wine must be healthy and strong. Strong wine and strong men are both charming. Weak and flabby wine, like weak men, have no appeal. New red wine is like a young man—full of vitality but too harsh and astringent. Mature red wine is like a man—both firm and gentle. The unique tenderness of red wine is like its silky texture.
The color of wine also reflects its age. White wines between 18–27 years old will have a pale yellow hue with green light or pale straw yellow. From 28–35 years old, they will turn straw yellow and gold. Ordinary dry white wine should be consumed by this time. Amber and yellow-white wines have reached the end of their life and are no longer enjoyable. Sweet white wines, however, are at their peak of maturity.
Young red wines will appear purple or deep purple, turning cherry red and ruby red as they mature, indicating that the wine is ready to be enjoyed. When red wine turns brown or brick red, it is generally considered old, but high-quality red wine can still be excellent. Ordinary brown wine is almost dead, except for special red wines from renowned estates.
The life span of wine is also related to storage. Corks must be in contact with the wine to prevent the cork from drying out and air from entering the bottle, causing oxidation. The storage temperature should be kept between 13–16°C to allow the wine to mature properly.