Illustrated Techniques for Clothing Cutting and Sewing

Author: Editor-in-Chief: Jiang Jinrui
Publisher:
Publish Date: 1997-01-01
Features:
Segment: Q&A How to draw a men's shirt prototype? What are the differences between its method and the women's prototype drawing? The production of a men's shirt prototype is also based on body measurement. The body types of different genders vary greatly, so the drafting methods for different genders' clothing must also differ. It is essential to strictly adhere to the characteristics of different body types and address the technical issues of various clothing parts to ensure that the finished garment adapts as much as possible to the human body. This principle applies to women's clothing as well as men's clothing. The basic dimensions of the men's shirt prototype, like the women's prototype, are based on the back length and chest circumference. The dimensions of other parts are added to these basic dimensions or calculated using specific proportional formulas.
The dimensions of the sleeve prototype are based on the sleeve length and the AH (armhole height) value indirectly obtained from the body prototype. The drafting method is shown in the figure, with steps consistent with those of the women's prototype. There are some differences between the drawing methods of the men's shirt prototype and the women's prototype, such as: the front piece of the men's shirt prototype is generally placed on the left side of the back piece; the BP (bust point) is not marked on the front piece; some formulas differ, and so on.
The most obvious difference is the side seam line of the front and back pieces. The side seam line of the women's prototype is slanted, while the side seam line of the men's shirt prototype is a vertical straight line.